AMALFI COAST, ITALY: A COMPLETE TRAVEL GUIDE

In recent years, the picturesque coastline of Positano has become synonymous with a trip to Italy. It’s one of a handful of colorful seaside towns scattered along the rocky cliffs of the Tyrrhenian Sea where beaches sit enveloped by hundreds of umbrellas and sun beds. It’s the stuff of Italian postcards, almost too picturesque to be real. A visit to this part of Italy isn’t cheap, but this spectacular setting gets you your money’s worth. Below is my complete guide to the Amalfi Coast. It breaks down the logistics of all the different towns, as well as the best beaches, beach clubs, boat trips, hotels, Airbnbs, restaurants, transportation tips and more.

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The beach view at Atrani is one of my favorite on the Amalfi Coast.

AMALFI COAST TIPS

• BEACH CLUBS – When you hear the term “beach club” in Italy, it is not in reference to a beach disco. It’s an area of the beach with sun beds, umbrellas and sometimes food that visitors pay to access. There are loads of beach clubs on the Amalfi Coast.
• PRICES – Prepare yourself. The prices in this part of Italy are ridiculous. Lodging is especially expensive. I suggest booking early for the most options, especially if you’re traveling between June and September.
• ROCKY BEACHES – Most of the beaches on the Amalfi Coast are rocky, not sandy. But don’t worry, the setting is completely picturesque.

The views in this part of Italy are incredible.

HOW MANY DAYS ON THE AMALFI COAST?

SIX DAYS. It takes work to make your way down to the Amalfi Coast, so best to stay awhile, relax and soak it all in. There are plenty of sights, towns and beaches to visit. If you plan to visit for five days or less, I suggest staying in one location, and visiting the surrounding towns and beaches as day trips. If you’re visit for six days or more, you can divide your time between the Amalfi Coast and a stay on the island of Capri.

Positano.

WHEN TO VISIT THE AMALFI COAST

JUNE, JULY AND AUGUST (high season) – If at all possible, avoid visiting in July and August. This is high season on the Amalfi Coast when crowds peak and prices skyrocket. The month of June offers a slightly better option. It’ll still be busy, but not quite as bad as mid to late summer. Hotel prices are at their peak all three months.

MAY, SEPTEMBER, OCTOBER (shoulder season) – While shoulder season on the Amalfi Coast is still pretty busy, the months of May, September and October see a slight dip in crowds and hotel price. May and September are the best months of the year to visit – a good balance of crowds, weather and hotel prices. October weather can be hit or miss.

NOVEMBER – APRIL (low season) – Avoid visiting the Amalfi Coast during low season. The weather is cold and dreary this time of the year, and much of the coast is closed for the season.

La Scogliera Beach Club, in Positano.

EXPLORE THE AMALFI COAST

AMALFI

The town of Amalfi sits centrally located on the Amalfi Coast, walking distance to the neighboring village of Atrani. If you aren’t staying in Amalfi, it’s worth visiting as part of a day trip. Popular sights include the Piazza del Duomo, Amalfi Cathedral and Chiostro del Paradiso. It’s a great stop to pair with a visit to Atrani.

ATRANI

Atrani is the smallest village in Italy, measuring a little over .12km. Yes, it’s tiny, but absolutely worth a visit for the truly stunning coastal scene. As you approach from Amalfi, you’ll see a sweeping panorama of the pastel village, stone archways, church domes and a beach filled with colorful umbrellas. It’s my favorite view on the Amalfi Coast.

CAPRI

Capri is lovely little island connected by ferry to Naples, Sorrento and Positano. While it can be visited as a day trip, I suggest staying at least two to three days to really soak in the charm of the island. Visitors arrive at the Marina Grande waterfront, the bustling heart of Capri. Once settled, there’s plenty to fill a few days – beach club at La Pontelina, shopping on Via Camarelle, viewpoints at Belvedere Cannone and The Gardens of Augustus, hike (or lift) to Monte Solaro and a boat tour out to the famous Blue Grotto.

FIORDO DI FURORE

Spectacular beach that sits nestled in a ravine at the base of a soaring arched bridge. Fiordo di Furore is a popular spot for swimming, sunbathing and brave cliff jumpers. It’s a quick hike down the steep stone steps to reach the beach from the main road, but note that there is no street parking. The best option if arriving by car is to have lunch at Euroconca or La Locanda del Fiordo, and then walk over from there.

RAVELLO

The resort town of Ravello sits perched on the slopes of the Lattari Mountains. At 365 meters above sea level, there is no coastal access, but it’s a welcome change from the bustling beach towns. There are charming pedestrian lanes to wander, lined with boutiques, artisan ceramics, gelato shops and cafes. And of course a visit to the gardens of Villa Cimbrone, medieval Villa Rufolo and the Piazza Duomo is a must. And if you’re in search of those iconic white sculptures facing the sea, you’ll find them on the Infinity Terrace at Villa Cimbrone.

POSITANO

It’s the most poplar destination on the Amalfi Coast. And for good reason. Positano is a vibe. The picturesque resort setting clings to the rolling cliffs offering up jaw dropping views as you wind your way deep into town. The narrow streets are lined with little shops, upscale boutiques, cafes, restaurants and spectacular intermittent viewpoints. Spiaggia Grande is the famous main beach lined with hundreds of umbrellas and sun beds along the seaside promenade. Fornillo Beach is walking distance from Positano, while Arienzo Beach and Laurito Beach are only accessible by boat.

PRAIANO

Praiano is just 15 minutes north of Positano. It’s best known for its beaches and beach clubs, but the village itself is a refreshing break from the crowds of Positano.

SORRENTO

Perched high above the Bay of Naples, Sorrento serves at the gateway to the Amalfi Coast. It’s much larger than some of the smaller towns that sit further south – more people, more streets and more bustle. If you base yourself in Sorrento, use the summer ferries to day trip down to Positano, Amalfi, Capri, Ischia, etc.

VIETRI SUL MARE

Vietri Sul Mare sits at the far southern end of the Amalfi Coast. Most visitors staying in northern region won’t make it down this far, but Vietri Sul Mare makes for a lovely visit if time permits. The coastal town is incredibly picturesque, filled with tiled boutiques, delicate ceramics and colorful shopfronts.

Sweeping views over Positano.

BEST BEACH CLUBS ON THE AMALFI COAST

• AMALFI – Lido Degli Artisti
• ATRANI – Any of small clubs on the main beach (views are amazing)
• CAPRI – La Pontelina, Il Riccio Beach Club and Torre Saracena
• NERANO – Conca Del Sogno
• POSITANO – La Scogliera, L’Incanto, Da Ferdinando and Arienzo
• PRAIANO – One Fire Beach and La Gavitella

Chez Black, in Positano.

AMALFI COAST HOTELS

BORGO SANT’ANDREA (CONCA DEI MARINI)

Borgo Sant’Andrea is absolutely stunning. A five-star boutique hotel that has all the essentials including a cliff-side infinity pool, blue and white Amalfi tiles, sea-facing verandah, spacious rooms, soaring archways and private plunge pools. The Conca dei Marini location is completely serene, about 4km from Amalfi.

CARUSO, A BELMOND HOTEL (RAVELLO)

This Belmond property is nothing short of exquisite. The former 11th century palace retains all of its Old World charm as you follow its storied hallways that give way to marble columns, original frescoes, stone archways and vaulted ceilings. Almost all Belmond Caruso rooms have sea-facing views of the sweeping Amalfi coastline. Beaches are not walkable from Ravello, but the property offers a shuttle service down to the coast.

CASA TUSCI (AMALFI)
Casa Tusci is a rare find in this part of Italy where so many apartments are old, outdated and very expensive. The design of the space is beautiful. The entire apartment is white accented with little blue tiled enclaves – everything is clean and modern. Amalfi, Atrani and the beaches are all walkable – location is ideal.

GRAND HOTEL TRITONE (PRAIANO)

Spectacular hotel built into the cliffs of Praiano overlooking stunning views of the sea. Grand Hotel Tritone is one of only a few hotels on the Amalfi Coast that boasts an idyllic private stretch of beach. Worth booking for th= incredible setting.

HOTEL LA MINERVA (CAPRI)

Boutique hotel on the island of Capri with 19 rooms that recently underwent renovation. Hotel La Minerva is a lovely blur of bright whites accented by color tiles. Location is ideal on a quiet street in the heart of town.

HOTEL LA RESIDENZA (CAPRI)

Popular hotel on the island of Capri located just 220 yards from the Piazetta. Rooms are spacious, and some of the terraces have views of Capri’s iconic rock formations. Hotel La Residenza is very clean, modern and classy option for an island stay.

HOTEL MARINCANTO (POSITANO)

A lovely option that sits in the heart of Positano. There are 30+ rooms, some better than others, but all very clean and charming. The terrace views of Positano are lovely, as is the cliff pool and small private beach. Hotel Marincanto is a great option if you’re looking to stay in Positano.

HOTEL MIRAMALFI (AMALFI)

The cliffside pool at Hotel Miramalfi is my favorite on the Amalfi Coast. A stone staircase leads guests to a stunning craggy cliff where flat rocky terraces are linked by staircases built into the cliff. Bright white sun beds and umbrellas are scattered across these cliffside sunbathing decks, and also line the turquoise cliff pool. The hotel itself is very sophisticated, but this cliffside beach setting is unmatched.

HOTEL RAITO (VIETRI SUL MARE)

Hotel Raito is a more moderately priced option located in Vietri Sul Mare. It doesn’t have the grandeur and intimacy of some of the ultra posh properties up north, but nonetheless this place is a beautiful option that won’t break the bank. Rooms are a bit dated, but very clean.

HOTEL SANTA CATERINA (AMALFI)

A transformed Art Nouveau villa that has been a long-standing favorite on the Amalfi Coast. The dramatic coastal setting is the epitome of an Italian summer. An elevator whisks guests down to the water where cliffside platforms are lined with white umbrellas perched above the sea. There’s also a sea facing salt water pool and ocean steps for access to the water. Rooms at Hotel Santa Caterina are bright, airy and luxurious – lots of character.

IL SAN PIETRO DI POSITANO (POSITANO)

The blue and white color palette of Il San Pietro di Positano is a vibe. This historic hotel clings to the craggy coastline at the edge of Positano. The rooms and suites are carved into the cliffs, many boasting panoramic terraces, handmade terracotta tiles, ceramics, Italian marble and spacious bathrooms.

LE SIRENUSE (POSITANO)

Le Sirenuse might be the most iconic hotel on the Amalfi Coast. It sits in the middle of Positano walking distance to everything in town. The hotel retains all the charm of Old World Amalfi, but everything looks new and fresh. Rooms are bright and airy, all vary in size and design. The views from the terraces throughout the property are unmatched, and the pool setting is one of the most picturesque in Italy. It isn’t cheap to stay here, but it truly is a vibe.

MONASTERO SANTA ROSA (CONCA DEI MARINI)

A former monastery in the little village of Conca dei Marini, Monastero Santa Rosa has been transformed into a stunning luxury hotel. It’s missing the beach access that you get at some of the neighboring Amalfi Coast properties, but the spectacular cliffside pool makes up for it.

VILLA PABLO CAPRI (CAPRI)

If you’re looking to splurge on the island of Capri, look no further than Villa Pablo Capri. Location is ideal, walking distance to the square. The apartment is bright and airy, adorned in whites and neutrals. The private terrace is outfitted with sun beds, umbrellas and a beautiful stone jacuzzi overlooking the sea.

The prettiest viewpoint sits on the side of the road in Positano.

In Positano they serve lemon sorbet in frozen lemons.

AMALFI COAST RESTAURANTS

CASA E BOTTEGA (POSITANO)

Charming establishment that is part cafe, part upscale boutique. The menu is delicious. They serve a mix of sweet breakfasts, salads, juices and a handful of lunch mains.

DA ARMANDINO (PRAIANO)

Delicious seafood spot in the village of Praiano. Grab one of the tables outdoors and enjoy the selection of fresh fish, shellfish and handmade pastas.

DA VINCENZO (POSITAINO)

Classic spot in Positano that appears in the Michelon guide. Most of the pasta is handmade and the delicious seafood options are all fresh. Reservations highly recommended.

CHEZ BLACK (POSITANO)

The food isn’t the best in Positano, but this place is a vibe. Chez Black is located next to the beach, and the bright colors and darling design always keep this place busy. Go for the atmosphere!

IL TRIDENTE (POSITANO)

Reserve a table at the edge of the terrace for a romantic dinner at sunset. The views over Positano from Il Tridente are sweeping.

LA SPONDA (POSITANO)

Absolutely darling restaurant located inside Le Sirenuse. La Sponda shares the hotel’s iconic views over Positano. The stunning terrace is designed in whites and soft greens with colorful tiles, crisp table cloths and ivy that clings to the airy walls. Classic mains include the chef’s pomodoro and grilled branzino.

LA TAGLIATA (POSITANO)

Dining at La Tagliata is truly an experience. The restaurant sits high above Positano, spread over three terraces that include an organic vegetable garden, private terraces and indoor and outdoor dining spaces. There is no set menu – it changes daily based on their garden. The traditional cooking includes a mix of antipasti and pastas. The restaurant offers free pick-up in Positano if you have a reservation.

RISTORANTE FRANCHINO (PRAIANO)

Upscale restaurant in Praiano specializing in homemade pasta dishes, fresh seafood and spectacular sea views.

SALUMERIA DA ALTO (CAPRI)

Cheap eat option on the island of Capri. Salumeria Da Alto is an Italian grocery store where you can pick up fresh sandwiches – perfect for a day at the beach.

TRATTORIA DA GEMMA (AMALFI)

Delicious spot in Amalfi that serves up a mouthwatering selection of fresh seafood, meats and pastas.

GET AROUND THE AMALFI COAST

• PRIVAT BOAT – It’s pretty amazing to see the Amalfi Coast by boat. For group tours and private boat options, check out Blue Star Positano.
• CAR RENTAL – While a rental car is possible, parking can be difficult along the Amalfi Coast for the length of your stay. A popular option is to simply rent a car for the day from one of the local agencies in town – more details below.
• FERRY – Use the ferry to move between several towns on the Amalfi Coast. For ferry times, routes and tickets, Ferryhopper is a great option.
• VESPA RENTAL – It’s not for the faint of heart, but renting a Vespa and cruising the Amalfi Coast is an iconic way to experience this part of Italy. Scooters available to rent from Positano Scooter.

GET TO THE AMALFI COAST

• AIRPORT – The closest airport is Naples-Capodichino International Airport.
• SHUTTLE / TAXI – From Naples, it’s an hour drive to reach Sorrento or 90 minutes to Positano without traffic. Drive times go up from there, depending on Amalfi Coast traffic. It’s a lot of one lane roads, so best to drive during off peak hours. Most visitors arrive by shuttle or private taxi.
• FERRY – It’s possible to reach the Amalfi Coast by ferry from both Naples and Sorrento. Travel time is one to two hours. For ferry times, routes and tickets, Ferryhopper is a great option.
• CAR RENTAL – Daily car rental once you’re on the Amalfi Coast is not cheap, but it’s a popular way to spend a day exploring. Positano Car Service is a solid option in town for car rentals. Remember, the smaller the car, the better for parking. Or if you want one of the cute vintage cars, rent from Positano Vintage.