ATHENS, GREECE: TRAVEL GUIDE TO THE ANCIENT CAPITAL
Athens might not be the first place that comes to mind when planning a summer holiday in Greece. In fact, it isn’t uncommon to skip over the ancient capital entirely in favor of spending more time on the islands. Hey, I did this for years. But a visit to one of the world’s oldest cities is a must, even if it’s only a few nights, to see the wondrous historical sights, enjoy the food scene and soak in the vibrant energy. Below is my complete guide to Athens including the best Acropolis viewpoints, places to visit, hotels, restaurants, travel tips and more.
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Woke up before sunrise for this Acropolis view from Areopagus Hill.
ATHENS TRAVEL TIPS
- CURRENCY – The official currency of Greece is the Euro. While most places take credit card, it’s useful to have cash handy for smaller purchases.
- RESERVATIONS – If you’re traveling during high season or on a weekend, I suggest making a dinner reservations in advance.
- TIPPING – Tipping is customary at bars, cafes and restaurants, and a 10%-15% tip is usually appreciated.
- STAY CONNECTED – Almost all hotels and restaurants have free wifi, but for 24/7 connection I suggest purchasing an eSIM right before your trip.
The prettiest sunset dinner at Four Seasons Astir Palace‘s Taverna 37. It felt like being back on the Greek islands.
WHEN TO VISIT ATHENS
- APRIL, MAY, SEPTEMBER, OCTOBER – Shoulder season is a great time to be in Athens. Hotel prices are slightly more reasonable, and the weather is generally comfortable this time of the year.
- JUNE-AUGUST – Avoid summer months in Athens. The crowds are gnarly, especially at popular tourist sights. And heat waves are frequent this time of the year with temperatures regularly in the 90s and 100s. Hotel prices are most expensive June through August.
- NOVEMBER-MARCH – Low season can be hit or miss with weather – chance of rain, and cooler temps this time of the year.
The Acropolis is the most iconic historical site in Athens.
Areopagus Hill offers a 360 panorama of the Acropolis, as well as the surrounding city.
HOW MANY DAYS IN ATHENS
TWO TO THREE DAYS. If Athens is a quick stop on a larger Greece trip, then two to three full days is enough time to get a taste of the city. You’ll have time to see the Acropolis, as well as a couple other tourist sights, explore the Plaka and eat a handful of delicious meals.
The Plaka Stairs are very touristy, but an absolute vibe in the evenings.
PLACES TO VISIT IN ATHENS
ACROPOLIS
It wouldn’t be a trip to Athens without a visit to the ancient Acropolis. Yes, it’s touristy. Yes, it’s overcrowded. But the Acropolis is completely iconic to Athens, and a place everyone should experience once. The historic high city isn’t that big, and it’s very possible to see all of it in one morning. Highlights include the Parthenenon, Porch of the Maidens, Temple of Athena Nike, Theater of Dionysus and Odeon of Herodes Atticus.
There are two entrances to the Acropolis – the Main Entrance (most crowded) and South Entrance (less crowded). My suggestion is to buy advanced tickets for the South Entrance for right when it opens (advanced tickets are timed). Be the first one in line, and literally rush up to the Parthenon once you’re inside. If you’re lucky, you’ll have a few minutes with the ruins before the crowds start to pour in from the Main Entrance. Another suggestion is to buy a ticket for end of day to avoid the morning tour groups, and be one of the last visitors of the day.
ACROPOLIS MUSEUM
An afternoon in the Acropolis Museum is an absolute treat for history enthusiasts. This world-famous museum houses artifacts and discoveries found within the ancient Acropolis including sculptures, pottery and other archeological wonders.
ANAFIOTIKA
A stroll though Anafiotika feels like walking through a Greek island village. This charming neighborhood sits nestled within the Plaka, just below the Acropolis. The picturesque corridors of Anafiotika are lined with white-washed stone houses, potted plants and blooming bougainvilleas.
AREOPAGUS HILL
Areopagus Hill is a rock formation located immediately opposite the ancient Acropolis, across from the Main Entrance. Climb the staircase up to the rocks for a spectacular panorama of surrounding Athens and the best view of the Acropolis. It’s particularly epic at sunrise, and you’ll only see a handful of other people. A stark contrast to the thousands of people inside the overcrowded Acropolis. Areopagus Hill is completely free to visit and open 24 hours a day.
LYCABETTUS
Another limestone hill in Athens that rises up over the city for epic views, especially at sunset. Lycabettus is actually the highest point in the city. The climb to the top takes 30 to 40 minutes, or there is a cable car available with a paid ticket.
PLAKA
Parts of this popular tourist neighborhood located next to the Acropolis feel more like a Greek village than the largest city in the country. The Plaka is a labyrinth of cobbled streets lined with boutiques, shops, cafes, tavernas, historic sights and blooming bougainvilleas.
PHILOPAPPOS HILL
This is a fabulous spot to watch the sunset, serving up a spectacular panorama over Athens. Philopappos Hill is actually a public park that towers above the city, conveniently located across from the Acropolis. Best to arrive early, especially during the summer.
Cheers to Athens sunsets.
BEST ATHENS HOTELS
If you’re looking for the best pool view in Athens, look no further than The Dolli at Acropolis. The boutique hotel sits across from the Acropolis with a rooftop terrace and pool that face the Parthenon. Formerly a private residence in the 1920s, this five-star retreat is ultra luxurious, and the finest place to stay in the Plaka. It’s beautiful.
This urban oasis sits tucked away in the Psirri neighborhood of downtown Athens. The Foundry Suites houses 12 spacious apartments. The spaces ooze modern luxury boasting vertical gardens, open floor plans, airy ceilings, hardwood floors, large windows, industrial shapes and very few doors. It’s a 20-minute walk to The Acropolis.
Formerly the Astir Palace Hotel, the legendary property on the Athens Riviera underwent new ownership in 2019. Now the Four Seasons Astir Palace, it remains timeless with an air of modernity and freshness. Most guests flock here for the coastline, and it is spectacular. The long stretch of seafront is walkable with swim ladders, sun beds, cabanas and umbrellas connecting the Nafiska Pool to the stunning cove at Taverna 37. Rooms are bright, new and comfortable, and splurging on a sea view is worth it. This is my favorite place to stay in Athens.
A roaring 20s style boutique hotel with 33 rooms in the heart of downtown Athens. Gatsby Athens is gorgeous. The airy entry bursts with foliage, and the restaurant feels very Old World featuring a round marble bar and Art Deco furniture pieces. Rooms are spacious, clean and the Art Deco design adds so much character.
The Modernist Athens resides in the former Canadian embassy in the city’s Kolanaki neighborhood. The modern space aims for minimalist luxury with a black, grey and white color palette. The 38 rooms are divided into four categories – small, medium, large and xlarge (the large and xlarge rooms are particularly spacious, bright and lovely).
On par with the Four Seasons Astir Palace, this is one of the most luxurious stays in Athens. One&Only Aethesis sits in the Glyfada suburb on the Athens Riviera with tranquil sea views that span the property. The rooms are luxurious, but comfortable outfitted in warm neutral tones with soft white headboards, plush couches and soft linens. Bathrooms are also stunning – freestanding tubs, walk-in rain showers and natural stone walls.
Woo Suites is a gem. This boutique hotel sits on a bustling square in the Plaka. Rooms are bright, airy and spacious, outfitted with sleek black and neutral tones. And while the price tag isn’t cheap, the room rates are reasonable compared to other high end properties in Athens.
Avra Bar is so beautiful.
WHERE TO EAT IN ATHENS
ANEFANI
The Plaka Stairs might be the most touristy spot in Athens, but you can’t deny the vibe. If you want to fully embrace the energy of the iconic location, Anefani is the best restaurant option on the steps. Reservations recommended – it gets very busy thanks to its prime location.
BRIGANTE
This little Italian trattoria is a great option if you tire of Greek food. The pasta is homemade, and the pizzas are piping hot and fresh.
THE GRECO’S PROJECT
Popular chain restaurant in Athens with three locations (Monastiraki Square, Mitropoleos Street and Ermou Street) that serves traditional Greek food. Menu includes hot and cold appetizers, Greek salad, grilled fish and gilled meats. Popular with both locals and tourists.
KARAMANLIDIKA
Very popular deli-style restaurant for local Greek dishes including meze, cured meats, Greek sausage, smoked fish and more. Karamanlidika takes reservations, or there is usually a short wait.
LARTECONO DAVINCI
Lartecodndo Davinci is a delicious gelato shop with 16 locations across Greece and Cypress. The cones varieties are fun, and flavor choices include milk chocolate, dark & orange, Nutella, choco strawberry, kinder bueno, oreo, banana toffee, after eight, spagnola and more.
LITTLE KOOK
Okay, the food isn’t great. But Little Kook is worth a visit to experience the whimsical fairytale decor that also changes seasonally for the holidays. The ceiling and walls are filled to the brim with lights and bright colorful decorations. Little Klook is located in the Psirri neighborhood, next to the Plaka.
MIRONI RESTAURANT
This gorgeous restaurant serves a selection of Greek and Mediterranean dishes including an array of classic appetizers like feta, marinated anchovy, shrimp saganaki, fried zucchini, potatoes and fresh pita. For mains they offer fresh grilled fish, grilled meats and home cooked pastas.
OVIO
Absolutely wonderful Italian restaurant straight out of the Michelin guide if you’re in the mood for fresh delicious pasta or wood-fired Neapolitan pizza. Pastas on the menu includes gnocchi, pomodoro, linguine with mussels and calamarata with lemon pesto.
PELAGOS
Michelin star restaurant at Four Seasons Astir Palace that presents a fresh and innovative approach to Mediterranean cuisine. With an emphasis on seasonal, locally sourced ingredients, Pelagos offers both a la carte and tasting menus that focus on seafood.
PICKY BRUNCH & SPECIALTY COFFEE
Cute spot for a healthy breakfast with options that include smoked salmon, eggs benedict, sautéed spinach, french toast, Japanese fluffy pancakes, smoothie bowls, yogurt bowls and fresh juices.
ROMATELLA-PINSA ROMANA
If you need a pizza fix, Romatella-Pinsa Romana is one of the best pizza restaurants in Athens. The flatbread pizza options include mortadella tomato, pepperoni, prosciutto tomato, parma and more.
TAVERNA 37
Taverna 37 sits on a small cove at Four Seasons Astir Palace where dozens of wooden taverna tables line the seafront of the idyllic cove. It feels like dining on a Greek island, and it’s quite the vibe at sunset. This is my favorite restaurant setting in Athens. Seafood is the restaurant’s specialty, and highlights include the fresh grilled fish, lobster pasta, sea bass and fresh pita. Reservations recommended.
THINALOS SEAFOOD RESTAURANT
One of the best seafood restaurants in Athens. It isn’t located in the Plaka, but worth the 10-minute taxi ride to feast on the fresh fish and grilled shrimp.
USURUM BRUNCH & COCKTAILS
Another fabulous brunch spot in Athens that serves popular morning options including eggs benedict, croque madame, scrambles, avocado toast, shakshouka, acai bowls and more.
Fresh pita and mezes are delicious in Greece.
GET AROUND ATHENS
Athens is a sprawling city. You’ll need to book transport to and from the airport – taxi and ride share apps (Freenow or UBER) are the easiest options. Within Athens, you might need the occasional taxi to reach specific sights or neighborhoods if they are not walkable from your hotel. If you’re staying within the Plaka, most of the sights, bars and restaurants can be reached on foot.
The sleek spaces of Woo Suites in the Plaka.
GET TO ATHENS
- PLANE – The Athens International Airport (ATH) services dozens of international cities, as well as domestic airports within Greece.
- FERRY – Athens is connected to dozens of Greek islands via the ferry system. There are three ferry ports across Athens – Piraeus, Rafina and Lavrio. Book the port that works best in terms of Athens location and ferry times. All ferry schedules are available on Ferryhopper, which I use to book all my ferry tickets.
- LAND – The traffic in Athens can be a bit crazy, but it’s possible to arrive in Athens by car as it’s located on mainland Greece. Once in Athens, it might be easier to ditch the car and explore on foot and by taxi.
I book all my ferry tickets on Ferryhopper.
