CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA: TRAVEL GUIDE TO CALIFORNIA’S FAIRYTALE VILLAGE

Carmel-by-the-Sea is a fairytale village that sits on the California coast sandwiched between Big Sur and Monterey. It’s a fabled setting that belongs in a storybook where visitors are surrounded by cottage core, pitched rooftops, old fashioned street lamps, curvy chimneys and whimsical details. A fanciful twist on Old World Europe. Below is my complete Carmel-by-the-Sea travel guide including the best places to visit, beaches, hiking trails, day trips, hotels, restaurants, Carmel photo locations, Google Map pins and more.

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There are more than 40 hidden passageways and courtyards in Carmel-by-the-Sea, and Der Ling Lane is the most charming. It’s like stepping into a fairytale.

CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA TRAVEL TIPS

• HIGH HEELS PERMIT – Yes, it’s true. It’s technically against the law to wear heels taller than two inches or a heel base smaller than one square inch without a permit from City Hall. The silly law was created in 1963 to prevent falls along the village’s uneven pavement that would result in lawsuits.
• STREET ADDRESSES – Outside of the commercial area of the village, there are no addresses in Carmel. Instead, homes are identified by cross streets, proper names (“Fables Cottage”) or a mere description “the second house on the street.”
• NO CHAIN RESTAURANTS – With the exception of Il Fornaio, there are no chain restaurants in Carmel-by-the-Sea. Instead, you’ll find a fabulous selection of privately owned restaurants, tasting rooms, little coffee shops and charming cafes.
• DOG FRIENDLY – Carmel-by-the-Sea is considered one of the most dog-friendly towns in the US. Along the streets you’ll see boutiques, hotels and restaurants offering water bowls, treats, doggie bags and even blankets for four-legged visitors. Almost all businesses are dog-friendly, and welcome visits from furry friends.

Blooms in Morgan Court | Entrance to The Pilgrim’s Way Books

Cypress Inn is one of the most iconic hotels in the village.

WHEN TO VISIT CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA

• APRIL, MAY, SEPTEMBER, OCTOBER – It’s tricky to plan a visit to Carmel-by-the-Sea around the weather because overcast skies are so frequent in this part of Northern California. Better to just avoid winter, and then plan around crowds. The shoulder months of April, May, September and October are ideal to avoid the summer tourists.
• JUNE-AUGUST – Summer weather is generally pretty nice, but overcast days are still very common. This is the busiest time of the year to visit. School is out and families flock to the area.
• NOVEMBER-MARCH – Avoid visiting in winter months when the weather is cold with frequent rain.

HOW MANY DAYS IN CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA

• TWO DAYS – A few days is enough time to cover both the village and Carmel Valley, as well as visit Carmel Beach and Point Lobos.
• FOUR DAYS – You’ll do all of the above, plus a couple day trips in the surrounding region to Big Sur, Monterey or Pacific Grove.

The Court of the Golden Bough dates back to 1923, and has all the charm of a European Old Town.

THINGS TO DO IN CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA

CARMEL COTTAGES

The charming homes in Carmel-by-the-Sea have a whimsical flair to them. Everything is unique, and there isn’t a cookie cutter track home in sight. Below are a few of my favorite storybook homes around the village with Google Maps location pins.

• Fables House – Google Maps Location
• Hansel and Gretel Cottages – Google Maps Location
• The Obers House – Google Maps Location
• Storybook Cottage – Google Maps Location
• Studio Cottage – Google Maps Location

CARMEL MISSION BASILICA

This historic Catholic mission was built by the Spanish in the late 18th century. It’s been fully restored, and the beautiful church, gardens and museum can now be visited with paid entry. The main entrance opens up to an incredible view of the old chapel towering over the inner courtyard and gardens. It channels Granada in the Andalusia region of Spain.

CARMEL COURTYARDS & PASSAGEWAYS

There are more than 40 hidden passageways and courtyards scattered throughout the downtown village. The little corridors lead to art galleries, bookshops, coffee shops and restaurants. Some are made of brick. Others lined with blooming flowers. And another follows a wall covered in giant tree roots (straight out of a fairytale). Below are a few of my favorites.

• Court of the Golden Bough – This courtyard dates back to 1923, and is considered the first shopping center in Carmel-by-the-Sea. The tiny courtyard has all the charm of a European Old Town. This is where you’ll find the iconic Cottage of Sweets.
• Der Ling Lane – A storybook passageway sits in the middle of Ocean Avenue, but it’s easy to miss if you don’t know it’s there. Giant tree roots have swallowed a wall along this narrow corridor that leads to the Thomas Kincade Gallery and a chocolate boutique.
• El Paseo Courtyard & Passageway – Charming courtyard inspired by the Old Towns of Spain.
• Las Tiendas & Passageway – The popular Carmel Coffee House is located inside this 1930s courtyard that has all the feels of Old World Mexico.
• Morgan Court – Beautiful stone alleyway lined with flowers and fairy lights.
• Secret Garden Passageway – A little passageway that connects Dolores Street to San Carlos Street via a bright red corridor lined with green plants, bamboo, stone statues and serene fountains.
• Tuck Box Courtyard – Tuck Box is the most fabled structure in the downtown village. The design of the little restaurant looks like a cottage that belongs in Disneyland’s Fantasy Land.

CARMEL BEACH

Follow Ocean Avenue on foot and it leads straight to picturesque Carmel Beach. The location makes it perfectly convenient to pair a day at the beach with a day at the village. It’s dog-friendly with soft white sand and beautiful views of the Pacific Ocean.

CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA VILLAGE

The highlight of any trip to Carmel-by-the-Sea is exploring the downtown village. A stroll along Ocean Avenue and its surrounding streets serves up a charming setting for shopping, dining and people watching. This area is home to unique boutiques, hidden passageways, darling courtyards, cozy coffee shops and delicious restaurants.

CARMEL VALLEY

Take a drive into scenic Carmel Valley for a breathtaking mini-road trip. There’s loads of fun stops along Carmel Valley Road including fruit markets, farm stands, wineries, roadside eateries and shops. A few of my favorite include Earthbound Farms, Folktale Winery & Vineyards, Tancredi & Morgen, Radici Market and Bear & Flag Roadside.

FOLKTALE WINERY & VINEYARDS

This picturesque winery is located in Carmel Valley. It was built in the 1980s, designed to look like a French Chateau inspired by the Bordeaux region of France. They offer a variety of wine tastings, vineyard tours and cellar tours. If you can’t make it out to the winery The Annex is located in the village, the winery’s eatery and wine shop.

MAD DOG & ENGLISHMEN BICYCLE RENTAL

The Carmel area is fabulous to explore on two-wheels. Mad Dog & Englishmen rents out all types of rides including e-bikes, retro styled bikes and fun sidecars for kids and pets. The bike shop is located in the village.

POINT LOBOS NATURAL RESERVE

Point Lobos Natural Reserve is a state park located in Carmel, just a few miles south of the village. It’s offers a collection of beautiful hiking trails that hug a stretch of the Pacific Coast that is home to kelp forests, seals, sea otters, whales, tide pool creatures and more. Must-visits inside the park include the turquoise water in China Cove, Cypress Grove Trail, Sea Lion Point and Blue Fish Cove.

Fables Cottage | Storybook Cottage | Hansel and Gretel Cottage

DAY TRIPS FROM CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA

BIG SUR

Big Sur is an epic 90-mile stretch of Pacific Coastline located south of Carmel. It takes approximately an hour to reach, and it’s easy enough to fill an entire day or two exploring hiking trails, waterfalls, beaches, viewpoints and coastal cafes. Highlights include Bixby Bridge, McWay Falls, Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, Henry Miller Memorial Library and Pfeiffer Beach.

CALA LILY VALLEY

A valley of cala lilies bloom from late January through April along the Garrapata Trail, at Garrapata Beach. The small valley of flowers offers up a serene setting along a gushing creek that opens up to views of the Pacific Ocean. It’s an easy hike down from the parking lot – less than half a mile.

LOVERS POINT

During the summer, Lovers Point is often compared to the beaches in the South of France. And while that might be a bit of an exaggeration, this beach in stunning when the conditions are right. It’s one of the few places along the northern California coastline where the water is calm and glistens vibrant shades of turquoise. Popular spot for swimming, kayaking and scuba diving.

MONTEREY

Monterey sits above Carmel, a quick 10-minute drive to reach Cannery Row, the Monterey Bay Aquarium, Dennis the Mennis Playground and Old Fisherman’s Wharf.

Carmel Valley Ranch is a popular place to stay thanks to the amazing amenities – infinity pool with a view, walkable vineyard, fruit & vegetable gardens, farm animals and a golf course.

PLACES TO EAT IN CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA

ANTON & MICHEL

Anton & Michel is a romantic little spot in the village where you’ll find dreamy fountains, ivy walls, firepits and fairy lights. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner. Dinner menu includes mushroom risotto, short ribs, filet mignon, crab cakes and homemade soups. Reservations recommended.

BEAR & FLAG ROADSIDE

Causal roadside stop for lunch on the drive into Carmel Valley. Bear & Flag Roadside serves up barbecued meats, sandwiches, salads and classic sides like roadside fries, beef chili, macaroni salad, slaws and more.

CASANOVA

Casanova is a charming French restaurant that’s a popular dinner spot in the village. Menu selection includes halibut, ribeye, Cornish game hen, risotto, seafood linguine, sole and more. The outdoor seating is very picturesque. Reservations recommended.

CHEZ NOIR

One of the best European bistros in Carmel, Chez Noir has been awarded one Michellin star for its coastal California cuisine. The tasting menu changes changes daily. Reservations recommended.

EL BISTRO BY THE SEA

This is a tasty place to grab brunch if you’re willing to wait for a table. El Bistro serves a variety of french toasts and pancakes, as well as omelettes, chilaquiles, huevos rancheros, hash skillets, salads, sandwiches, fish tacos and more.

FROM SCATCH

From Scratch is a great casual spot for diner style comfort food that includes breakfast 24/7 – benedicts, pancakes, omelettes, wraps, sandwiches and burgers.

LA BICYCLETTE RESTAURANT

A corner European bistro that’s a popular spot for both locals and tourists in the village. Menu highlights include the wood-fired pizzas, bavette steak, seafood spaghetti and fresh fish. La Bicylette is a Michellin guide restaurant. Reservations recommended.

LUCIA RESTAURANT

Delicious restaurant in Carmel Valley at the Bernardus Lodge & Spa. The outdoor courtyard is a lovely setting for lunch, dinner or weekend brunch. Similar to most restaurants in Carmel, Lucia uses local fare and organic produce, and the food is delicious. My favorites were the fresh salads and divers scallops.

MISSION BISTRO

Solid bistro located on the lower level of Carmel Plaza. The cozy restaurant serves lunch and dinner. Menu includes a variety of meats, fresh fish, pasta, salads and bread service.

PORTABELLA

Portabella is an Italian favorite located on Ocean Avenue, inside the iconic Court of the Golden Bough. There is rustic indoor dining, or a charming garden with outdoors seating. Fresh pasta options include pappardelle al pomodoro, papparadelle alla bolognese, pasta carbonara, mushroom truffle risotto and seafood linguine. There are also a handful of meat and fish dishes on the menu including pan seared scallops, grilled king salmon, braised short ribs and garlic chicken.

STATIONARY

This Michellin guide spot is both coffee shop and cafe. It’s a popular brunch destination on the weekends serving up chilaquiles, avocado toast, french toast, shashuka, egg dishes, lobster rolls and more.

China Cove is one of my favorite spots along the hiking trails inside Point Lobos Natural Reserve.

BEST BOUTIQUES & SHOPS

• BEE BARK & MOSS
• CARMEL BAY COMPANY
• DIGGITY DOG
• ELISABETHW
• HOUSE OF CARDOON
• SOMEWHERE IN CARMEL
• TANCREDI & MORGEN

GET AROUND CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA

The village is pedestrian friendly with boutiques, cafes and restaurants all within walking distance from each other, and walkable to Carmel Beach. If you plan to visit Carmel Mission Basilica, Point Lobos Natural Reserve or Carmel Valley, you’ll need a car. The driving distances are short, but it’s too far to walk. And any day trips to Big Sur, Monterey, etc. require a car.

GET TO CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA

• FLIGHT – The closest airport to Carmel is the Monterey Regional Airport. It’s a smaller airport with limited flight schedules, so most visitors fly into the San Jose Mineta International Airport or San Francisco International Airport, and drive to Carmel as part of a larger road trip. Carmel is a 15 minute drive from the Monterey Regional Airport, a one hour 45 minute drive from the San Jose Mineta International Airport and a two hour fifteen minute drive from the San Francisco International Airport.
• CAR – Most visitors arrive by car – either as a day trip from the Bay Area or as part of a Highway 1 road trip. There are paid parking meters throughout the village, and all hotels have private parking lots.

The Carmel Mission Basilica dates back to the late 18th century.