CEFALU, SICILY: THE ULTIMATE TRAVEL GUIDE
The seaside setting of Cefalu is an absolute must on any road trip through Sicily. It sits about an hour from Palermo, but feels like a completely different world from the chaos of the capital city. Cefalu’s Old Town is home to a picturesque maze of pedestrian corridors that sit at the base of La Rocca, a soaring cliff that is home to Greek, Roman and Norman remains. And the gateway to all of this is a spectacular sea front lined with signature blue and white striped umbrellas. The epitome of summer. Below is my completely guide to Cefalu including the best beaches, viewpoints, hikes, photo locations, hotels, Airbnbs, restaurants and more.
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Afternoon hangs in the picturesque Piazza del Duomo.
This vibrant square is the heart of Old Town lined with the duomo, cafes and restaurants.
WHEN TO VISIT CEFALU
- APRIL, MAY, SEPTEMBER, OCTOBER – September is probably the best month of the year to visit Cefalu. It’s the ideal balance of warm weather and shoulder season crowds while avoiding the masses of summer. April, May and October are also shoulder season months, but weather can be hit and miss.
- JUNE-AUGUST – This is the busiest (and most expensive!) time of the year to visit, but the trade off is sunny weather, long days and good summer energy.
- NOVEMBER-MARCH – Crowds are sparse in low season, but it’s also the coldest time of the year on the island. The beaches will be too chilly for swimming, and seasonal businesses closed for the off season.
Cefalu was the first stop on our road trip around Sicily. OUTFIT DETAILS: Free People set linked here.
HOW MANY DAYS IN CEFALU
THREE DAYS. You can see all of Old Town and the waterfront in one day, but you’ll want to stay three days to have time to enjoy the beaches, the bars, the restaurants and conquer the hike up to La Rocca.
I’m absolutely obsessed with the beach backdrop in Cefalu. OUTFIT DETAILS: One-piece linked here.
The energy on the waterfront beach is quintessential European summer.
Postcard scenes in Cefalu.
CEFALU TIPS
- CURRENCY – The official currency of Italy is the Euro. Most places in Sicily take card, but it’s always handy to have cash for smaller purchases.
- BOOK IN ADVANCE – High quality lodging isn’t one of Cefalu’s strengths, so I suggest booking far in advance to have plenty of options to sort through.
- RESERVATIONS – Make dinner reservations before arriving if you are traveling during summer season. Most of the restaurants are tiny, and the good spots fill up quickly (especially on weekends).
There are so many picturesque places scattered throughout Old Town.
THINGS TO DO IN CEFALU
DUOMO DI CEFALU
This 12th century Roman Catholic basilica sits on the main square in town, just below the towering cliffs of La Rocca. The church is open to the public to visit including the twin towers for a sweeping panorama over Old Town.
KALURA BEACH
A lovely beach on the opposite side of La Rocca, a five-minute drive from Old Town. The water here is calm and sparkly, a great spot to spend an afternoon in the sun. There is no official parking lot, so best to park along a nearby street and then walk down to the beach.
LA ROCCA
The hike up to the historic ruins of La Rocca is a must in Cefalu. Greek, Roman and Norman remains sit high in the cliffs above Old Town, along with spectacular panoramic views. The trailhead is located behind the town, and takes two hours roundtrip with stops for photos. It’s an uphill hike, but very manageable.
MOLO DI CEFALU
A long pier extends out from Old Town, and it’s a popular spot for sunbathing, swimming and jumping into the water. The views of the waterfront and La Rocca from Molo di Cefalu are spectacular.
PIAZZA DEL DUOMO
All streets in Cefalu lead to the beautiful Piazza del Duomo. This is the main square in Old Town, and my favorite time to visit is in the evenings. There are plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating in the middle of the square – perfect for a cocktail while admiring the views of the cathedral and people watching.
SPIAGGIA DEL PORTO VECCHIO
This is the small main beach in front of Old Town, home to the iconic blue and white striped umbrellas. The soaring backdrop of Cefalu make this place an absolute vibe. For the best sun bed and beach umbrella selection, arrive in the morning.
SPIAGGIA DI CEFALU
This long stretch of beach sits a bit further from Old Town, but you’ll get views of the entire waterfront and La Rocca when sunbathing here. If the views look familiar, the opening scenes of season two of White Lotus were filmed here.
TORRE CALDURA
The beautiful ruins of this 16th century coastal watch tower sprout from a craggy outcrop of rocks. The remains are on private property, but there are spectacular views of the tower from the top of La Rocca, or from the water below.
VICOLO CARACCIOLO
Charming staircase tucked away in Old Town that is lined with the island’s signature colorful ceramic pots. There are dozens of pots scattered around town, but Vicolo Caracciolo is the most picturesque.
Absolutely love all the colorful ceramics throughout the city, especially the pots that line Vicolo Caracciolo.
Summer vibes in Old Town.
CEFALU DAY TRIPS
CALETTA SANT’ELIA
This is a charming pebble beach tucked at the end of a rocky inlet surrounded by a little charming village. The scenery reminds me of an ultra-mini Cinque Terre. Very serene and picturesque.
GROTTA DELLE COLOMBE
Once a hidden gem, Grotta delle Colombe went viral on social media a couple of years ago and the secret is out. A winding staircase has been cut into a rocky outcrop completely surrounded by deep crystalline waters and sea grottos. On a calm day, it’s a spectacular spot for swimming and cliff jumping.
PALERMO
Some people love the chaos of big cities. Others avoid it at all costs. If you’re somewhere in the middle, it’s possible to just visit Palermo for the day from Cefalu, and not dedicate an entire leg of your trip to the capital city. There’s plenty to fill an entire day including the Teatro Massimo, Palermo Cathedral, Norman Palace, Villa Bonanno and the famous outdoor markets. Be sure to account for the city’s traffic, and leave very early in the morning.
If you don’t have time to stay in the Scopello region of Sicily, but don’t want to leave without experiencing Tonnara di Scopello, it’s possible to visit as a long day trip. This stretch of coast was once a former fishing village. It has now been transformed into a historic beach club where visitors spend sunny days swimming and sunbathing amongst the limestone rocks and sparkling emerald water. The views here are ridiculously beautiful.
A day trip to the spectacular Grotta delle Colombe.
The cutest balconies at our apartment in Cefalu, at Incao Holiday I Pupi House.
CEFALU HOTELS
This lovely one-bedroom apartment is located in the heart of Cefalu, close to the main piazza. Agave Cefalu is nothing fancy, but it’s clean and comfortable.
En .. Suite. is a small, no frills one-bedroom apartment in Old Town. The place is clean, the price is good and location is very central.
Hotel options are sparse in Cefalu. The only upscale offering is La Calette N.5., mostly for it’s truly stunning stretch of turquoise coastline. It sits on the opposite side of La Rocca, a five-minute drive from Old Town. There are 30 rooms at the property that are comfortable and clean. Sea access here is amazing.
Incao Holiday I Pupi House is a one-bedroom apartment on a quiet street in the heart of Old Town. Both the Piazza del Duomo and the beach are a one-minute walk in either direction. It’s clean, cozy and ideal for two people. The apartment has two balconies that overlook the pedestrian street below.
Similar to its sister property above, Incao Holiday II Moro House is a clean, remodeled apartment ideally located in Old Town.
The colors of Sicily.
Fresh orange juice 24/7 in Cefalu.
CEFALU RESTAURANTS
BAR DUOMO
The food here is not great, but the location on the Piazza del Duomo cannot be beat. I suggest visiting in the early evening for a drink to enjoy the vibe of Cefalu, and then make reservations elsewhere for dinner.
LA BOTTE
A little Italian restaurant that specializes in seafood. The menu includes seafood pastas, fresh fish, shellfish and a handful of grilled meats.
LE CHAT NOIR
Le Char Noir is a popular restaurant that sits on a quiet street serving up a variety of Sicilian dishes. Reservations recommended, and request outdoor seating.
LIBERTY RESTAURANT BISTRO & WINE BAR
I love the cute outdoor seating here along a quiet street in Old Town. There are a variety of dishes on the menu at Liberty, but the specialty is seafood and seafood pastas.
LOCANDA DEL MARINAIO
Locanda del Marinaio is a Michellin guide restaurant that serves fresh seafood, pastas and Mediterranean cuisine. The service is excellent, as is the food. Reservations are a must – request outdoor seating.
MANDRALISCA SEDICI SICILIAN
This is a lovely little restaurant with seating along one of the pedestrian streets in town. The menu of fresh seafood and Sicilian dishes is fresh and delicious. There are only a handful of tables. Reservations recommended.
PASTA E PASTI
It might be surprising, but traditional Italian pasta isn’t common in Sicily. That’s because most of these dishes are specific to mainland Italy. Yes, there are plenty of Sicilian pastas, but not the traditional stuff you find in Tuscany, Rome, etc. That makes Pasta e Pasti a must-visit for its expansive menu of pomodoro, pesto, bolognese, carbonara, buffala, norma, stuffed pastas and lasgana. We ate here a couple of times in Cefalu.
SAPORE DI SALE GELATERIA
A delicious little ice cream shop located near the Piazza del Duomo that serves more than a dozen delicious flavors, as well as cannoli.
SICILIAN FOOD & DRINK
Sicilian Food & Drink is one of the more casual spots in town to grab a bite. Outdoor tables line one of my favorite streets in town, Via Carlo Ortolani di Bordonaro (it’s is home to lots of wine bars with outdoor seating). Menu includes traditional Sicilian small bites, burgers and beer.
Pasta e Pasti is a casual, delicious pasta option in town.
Early evening cocktails on Via Carlo Ortolani di Bordonaro (lots of cute outdoor bars on this street), followed by dinner at Mandralisca Sedici Sicilian.
GET AROUND CEFALU
Within Cefalu, you’ll be exploring on foot. Old Town is a pedestrian-friendly zone where everything is accessible by walking. There are paid parking lots at the edge of Old Town where visitors can leave vehicles overnight, as well as street parking. It’s a bit of a journey to the Old Town apartments with heavy luggage when you first arrive because only local cars are permitted within Old Town. I suggest dropping one person and the luggage at the barrier to Old Town, while the other person parks the car. From there, most apartments at a 10-minute walk.
It’s a fun, sweaty hike up to La Rocca.
The roundtrip hike takes about two hours with stops to enjoy the views.
GET TO CEFALU
Most visitors begin or end their road trip through Sicily in Cefalu. It’s technically an hour from the Palermo Airport, but with traffic can take up to two hours. Most major car rental companies have locations at the airport. If you’re traveling to or from Taormina, it’s a two and a half hour drive.
This little fruit truck parks on the street every morning to sell fresh produce.
Old Town is a vibe in summer.
Farewell, Cefalu!
When did you visit Cefalu? How many days were you in Sicily? Do you feel like you need to go back to see more or was once enough?
Coming to Sicily next Oct need accommodation in Cefalu and Tararmia.
There are lodging recs for both on my destination guides!