DUBROVNIK, CROATIA: TRAVEL GUIDE TO THE MEDIEVAL ADRIATIC

Dubrovnik truly is a medieval wonderland. Most visitors spend a mere day in King’s Landing, but I could easily stay an entire week on this stretch of Croatia‘s Adriatic coast. The region is absolutely stunning, and I’d be hard-pressed to find a more perfect summer destination in Europe. The country has become increasingly popular in recent years, thanks in part to HBO’s Game of Thrones. On a summer day when cruise ships are in port, shoulder-to-shoulder crowds in Old Town are quite common. I’ve put together a complete guide to Dubrovnik below – it covers all my favorites spots in and around the city, as well as tips for sightseeing, beaches, day trips, photos, hotels, restaurants, Google Map pins and more.

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DUBROVNIK TRAVEL TIPS

• CURRENCY – In early 2023, Croatia ditched the Kuna and adopted the Euro as the national currency. Almost everywhere takes credit card, but always useful to have some cash on hand.
• CRUISE SHIPS – When cruise ships are in port, little Dubrovnik becomes especially congested with tourists. Check the cruise schedules and make plans accordingly. It’s best to spend time in Old Town in the evenings or on days when no ships are in port. On port days, take a day trip down to Pasjaca Beach, ferry over to Lokrum Island or just spend the day at the beach.
• ROLLER BAGS – The use of roller bags is discouraged within the city walls, but contrary to news reports, there are no fines.

HOW MANY DAYS IN DUBROVNIK?

THREE TO FIVE DAYS. As you plan your visit, consider spending three to five days in Dubrovnik. The main tourists sites can be covered in one to two jam-packed days, but the busy schedule would leave no time to stop to enjoy anything. With careful planning, a longer stay affords you the time to experience Old Town without crowds, soak in the city at a relaxed pace and maybe even squeeze in a day trip. Five days is ideal.

PLACES TO VISIT IN DUBROVNIK

BANJE BEACH

Dubrovnik’s main beach is one of the prettiest in the country, thanks to its spectacular views of Old Town. Banje Beach sits just south of the city walls, a five-minute walk from Ploče Gate. The beach is large, but it does get busy, especially during the summer months. For a spectacular view of Old Town and the Adriatic, stop for a photo at the top of the steps that lead down to the beach. It’s one of my favorite views in Dubrovnik.

BUZA BARS I & II

Built into the cliffs below the medieval walls, the city’s two Buza Bars are lovely spots to grab a cold beer on a summer day. The bars sits tucked away in the same back corner of Old Town. Holes in the wall (literally) lead to small passageways that open up to sweeping views of the Adriatic Sea where white umbrellas are scattered up the cliff. Grab a table and watch the cliff jumpers plunge anywhere from 20 to 60 feet into the water. A great spot for a swim.

CAVTAT

A seaside village located approximately 18 km from Dubrovnik, reachable via a 45-minute ferry ride. The historic waterfront is lined with picturesque churches, al fresco dining and tiny shops – a serene spot to grab dinner on a summer evening.

CITY WALLS

The 2 km stroll along the medieval walls of Old Town is the highlight of any trip to Dubrovnik. The topside panoramas of the city are sweeping along a path that leads through Minceta Tower, Bokar Fort, Revelin Fort and Pile Gate. The walk takes approximately 1.5 to two hours, and there are three entry points at Inner Pile Gate, St. Lucas Fortress and St. John’s Fortress.

DANCE BEACH

This is a swim ladder haven, a spectacular setting for an afternoon of swimming and sunbathing. It’s walking distance from Dubrovnik, just beyond Sulic Beach.

LOKRUM ISLAND

Lokrum Island is a lovely day trip destination from Dubrovnik. Ferries leave twice an hour from Porporela, located just outside of the Old Town walls, and it’s about a 20-minute journey. The island is small, home to a Benedictine Monastery, Dead Sea swimming hole and botanical garden, all reachable on foot. And then there’s the real reason to visit is the Adriatic coastline, riddled with rocks and swim ladders for an idyllic day of sunbathing.

LOVRIJENAC

Also known as St. Lawrence’s Fortress, Lovrijenac is a spectacular fortification that sits atop jagged cliffs 37-meters above the sea. The fortress peninsula faces the city walls, providing a great vantage point for photos of Old Town.

MOUNT SRD.

Visit the top of Mount Srd. for panoramic views over all of Dubrovnik. There is a hiking trail that starts just outside of the Old Town city walls that is free of charge, or there is a gondola that can be accessed via a paid admission ticket. I recommend hiking up in the morning before it gets too hot, and then taking the gondola down. Panorama Restaurant is located at the top of the mountain – truly dining with a view.

OLD TOWN

Spend a day exploring Dubrovnik’s Old Town. A stroll through the pedestrian maze of limestone alleys is like a step back in time. The medieval city is home to plenty of sights, easily discovered by aimless wanders including Loggia Square, Onofrio Fountain, Rector’s Palace, Dubrovnik Cathedral, Pile Gate & Ploče Gate and the Stradun (main boulevard).

PASJACA BEACH

Pasjaca Beach sits just outside of Dubrovnik, and makes for a wonderful day trip from King’s Landing. It’s a 30-minute drive south to the beach’s small parking lot. Follow the trail along the coast to a steep staircase built into the cliffs. It leads straight down to Pasjaca’s spectacular crystal clear shallows.

THE RECTOR’S PALACE

This stunning Renaissance Gothic palace dates back to the mid-15th century. Today, a museum sits inside The Rector’s Palace. It’s an incredible setting to stroll amongst the stone archways, colonnades and carved pillars.

SOKOL TOWER

This medieval hilltop fortification is driving distance from Dubrovnik. It’s a great destination to couple with Pasjaca as a daytrip. Visit at opening in the morning and you’ll have the castle-like structure all to yourself.

SULIC BEACH

Sulic Beach is far less popular than Banje Beach, but it’s much more atmospheric. The tiny beach sits in a medieval nook, tucked away below Lovrijenac. It feels like taking a dip in 13th century Croatia.

SVETI JAKOV

A slightly less touristed beach, only because of its distance from Old Town. It can still be reached on foot, just follow the road to Banje Beach, but keep walking another 15 minutes. The quiet beach has loungers and umbrellas available for rent, and there is a small restaurant that serves drinks and food.

WEST HARBOR

The stunning West Harbor sits just outside the city walls, a short stroll from Pile Gate. This area is home to some of my favorite views of Old Town’s city walls, Lovrijenac and an iconic Game of Thrones filming location.

CROATIA GOOGLE MAP PINS

I’ve been traveling to Croatia for more than a decade, and I’m sharing more than 200 of my Google map pins from destinations across the country with you guys here. The map is savable to your Google account, and easy to use for trip planning and navigation once on the ground in Croatia.

Map pins include:

• must-visit destinations, churches, historic sites, viewpoints
• hotels, villas, Airbnbs
• bars, cafes, cliff bars, gelato shops, restaurants
• beaches, cliff jumping locations, off shore islands, secret coves, sea caves
• boat rental companies, ferry ports
• photo from several of these locations

Destinations included in the map: Cavtat, Dubrovnik, Korcula, Hvar, Krka, Plitvice Lakes, Rovinj + Greater Istria, Split and Vis.

DUBROVNIK HOTELS

DUBROVNIK FINEST APARTMENTS

A beautiful set of apartments located very close to the Old Town gates. The Studio with the Landmark View is the nicest of the three options they offer. The space has lots of natural light, which looks even brighter thanks to the white and neutral color palette. Dubrovnik Finest Apartments is a wonderful option if it’s available.

HOTEL BELLEVUE

Hotel Bellevue is a ultra luxe, contemporary property that boasts more than 90 rooms and suites that are clean, modern and spacious. The property sits on beautiful Miramare Bay, a 15-minute walk from Old Town.

HOTEL EXCELSIOR DUBROVNIK

For travelers looking to splurge in Croatia, this is the place to do it. Like most properties located along this stretch of coast, Hotel Excelsior is built into the rocks, and the seaside location is incorporated into almost every aspect of the hotel. The rocky sunbathing area is perched just above water where guests are treated to dreamy views of Old Town, and the surrounding Adriatic Sea feeds the hotel’s spectacular saltwater pool. Additionally, the on-site restaurant Prora seats guests beneath medieval archways that open up to the sea. The hotel interior is modern and minimalist chic, but it’s the location that makes splurging worth the stay.

HOTEL KOMPAS DUBROVNIK

Hotel Kompas is beautiful modern property that overlooks Lapad Bay. It sits just three miles from Old Town, but that translates to a 45-minute walk or 20-minutes by public bus. Not ideal for tourists that want to be within a stone’s throw of the city, but a quiet retreat for those that want an escape.

HOTEL STARI GRAD

Hotel Stari Grad is one of the only hotels located within the Dubrovnik city walls. Formerly a 16th century nobleman’s house, the boutique property has been completely gutted and renovated into nine rooms and five suites. One of the best places to stay within Old Town.

NAVE APARTMENT

Brand new apartment located in the Ploce neighborhood, a 10-minute walk to Old Town. It doesn’t have the Old World character as some of the other apartments you’ll find in Dubrovnik, but the clean, modern space makes]’ this place a solid option.

OLD TOWN DUBROVNIK APARTMENT

This one-bedroom apartment is located up the steps on the climb to Lady Pi-Pi. The Airbnb rental is beautiful. It sits inside a 17th century building, featuring exposed stone walls, modern furnishings and lovely decor. An absolute gem in Old Town.

OLD TOWN L

Old Town L is a lovely apartment that blends modern cues with the space’s exposed medieval stone wall. The white, orange and tan color scheme make the airy digs especially cheery. The property sits in the flat part of Old Town, a perk for guests who want to avoid the city’s infamous stone steps. It isn’t a huge space, but the apartment can comfortably fit two people.

ST. JOSEPH’S BOUTIQUE HOTEL

Another wonderful option within Old Town that blends the historic setting with modern comforts. St. Joseph’s Boutique Hotel offers five rooms that are rustic chic with exposed stone walls, wood beam ceilings and wooden shutters. The Deluxe King Suite is particularly spacious and lovely.

TWO STEPS APARTMENT

A clean, comfortable apartment with loads of character located in the heart of Old Town. There isn’t a ton of natural light inside the Two Steps Apartment, which might be claustrophobic for some. It can also be a bit noisy from passing pedestrians – just the nature of the alley where it’s built. If neither are an issue, the space is a very good value.

VILLA DUBROVNIK

Located down the street from Hotel Excelsior, Villa Dubrovnik is a five-star property just 15-minutes walking from Ploče Gate. The hotel’s location is stunning, built into the cliffs overlooking idyllic views of the Adriatic. The sunbathing area is particularly lovely with white loungers and white umbrellas scattered along the rocks. Rooms are spacious and modern, all with views of the sea.

DUBROVNIK RESTAURANTS

FISH RESTAURANT PROTO

This family-owned restaurant has been around for more than 100 years, and sits in the heart of Old Town. The food is Michelin reviewed and the speciality is seafood, of course. While the menu changes based on availability, offerings often include fresh fish, mussels, shellfish, crab and scallops.

FOURTY FOUR RESTAURANT

Romantic restaurant setting located just off of the Stradun in Old Town. Forty Four Restaurant is indoors, so not much in terms of views, but there are a handful of alleyway tables. Artful dishes include a range of fresh seafood, pastas and meats. Reservations recommended.

GRADSKA KAVANA ARSENAL

Gradska Kavana Arsenal sits on one of the main square’s in Old Town – the perfect setting for outdoor dining during the summer, especially in the evening. Menu includes Croatian specialties like mussels, sea bass, seafood risotto, oysters and more.

LADY PI-PI

This is the best restaurant in Dubrovnik. Everything about it is amazing – the fresh seafood, the rooftop ambiance, the service and the views. It’s a bit of a hike up the Old Town steps to reach the restaurant, but the delicious food and views over the city make it well worth the extra effort. The restaurant is tiny, and they do not take reservations. Arrive just before the restaurant opens, and you won’t wait too long for a table.

LUCIN KANTUN

Luncin Kantun occupies a quiet alleyway, just off the Stradun in Old Town. Menu offers a variety of delicious fresh pastas and seafood.

KONOBA RIZARIO

Little tables are scattered along the steps that surround the oldest church in Dubrovnik – first rate ambiance at Konoba Rizario. Menu includes typical Croatian dishes. The fresh mussels and whole fish are particularly delicious.

NAUTIKA RESTAURANT

This two-star Michelin restaurant sits outside the city walls near Pile Gate with sweeping views of Bokar-Festung and the Lovrijenac Fortress. Nautika is a fine dining experience with a menu that serves up local fresh seafood cuisine, as well as some meats. It’s been previously named one of the most romantic restaurants in the world by Conde Nast Traveller.

OYSTER & SUSHI BAR BOTA

Yes, one of my favorite restaurants in Dubrovnik is a sushi spot. And I’m not alone. It’s hard to nab a table at Oyster & Sushi Bar Bota during the summer months. Reservations are a must. Menu is filled with fresh sushi, sashimi, nigiri and teriyaki plates.

GELATO IN DUBROVNIK

• AROMA GELATO – Popular gelato shop with locations across Croatia, and two in Old Town Dubrovnik. aRoma is my favorite gelato in Croatia.
• BOCCAPIENA – Boccapiena serves up more than 15 delicous flavors of ice cream, and very cute ice cream bars.
• GELATERIA DUBROVNIK – This is one of the oldest gelato shops in Dubrovnik. It might not be the best, but still delicious and refreshing.
• PEPPINO’S GELATO – Artisanal gelato shop, also with two locations in Old Town. Peppino’s serves a mix of both classic and eccentric flavors including Stracciatella, Pistachio, Chocomenta and Mango Sorbet.

GET TO DUBROVNIK

Dubrovnik is accessible by land, sea and air, making it an ideal city to fly into for island hopping or road trips through Croatia.

• FLIGHTS – The international airport connects Dubrovnik to domestic destinations, as well as dozens of cities throughout Europe and the Middle East.
• FERRIES – Dubrovnik is ideal for starting or ending an island hopping trip through Croatia. The city is connected to islands Hvar, Korcula, etc. via the ferry system. I always use Ferry Hopper to look up ferry schedules and book my tickets.
• CAR RENTALS – Most car rental agencies have outposts at the Dubrovnik Airport. Parking isn’t the easiest around Old Town. I suggest not renting a car while in Dubrovnik. You won’t need it – almost everything is walking distance. Best to just rent for the day to accommodate any day trips.
• SHUTTLE BUS – The cheapest journey to town from the airport is the Dubrovnik Airport Shuttle Bus. It parks outside the terminal exit and stops at Pile Gate before continuing onward to the main station in Gruz Port. The journey to town is 30-40 minutes, and tickets can be purchased on the bus.
• PRIVATE TRANSFERS – Dubrovnik Transfer is the best private transfer to and from the airport or ferry. The drivers wait for guests with signs just outside of baggage claim at the airport with ultra lux cars and vans.

GET AROUND DUBROVNIK

Dubrovnik is a pedestrian friendly city with most sights located within the Old Town city walls, or just outside. For visitors interested in day trips, there are ferries that connect Dubrovnik to nearby Lokrum Island or neighboring Cavtat. A car is not necessary while in Dubrovnik, but day rentals are available at agencies around town for trips to Pasjaca Beach, Sokol Tower or Peljesac Peninsula.