EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND: A GUIDE TO CASTLES, COBBLESTONE CLOSES AND COZY PUBS
I adore Edinburgh. The medieval Old Town feels straight out of a J.K. Rowling novel, filled with cobbled streets, hidden courtyards, historic pubs and crumbling church ruins. It’s truly a step into another era. From the dramatic Edinburgh Castle perched atop an extinct volcano to the hidden closes tucked away off the Royal Mile, the Scottish capital is a place made for slow travelers, bookworms, history lovers and romantics. Below is my complete travel guide to Edinburgh including the best historic sights, bookstores, pubs, restaurants, hotels, Edinburgh photo locations, travel tips and more.
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Makars Court. OUTFIT DETAILS: Abercrombie trench linked here.
EDINBURGH TRAVEL TIPS
- CURRENCY – The official currency of the UK is the British pound. Almost everywhere accepts credit card, but it’s always useful to have some cash handy.
- TIPPING – Tipping is completely discretionary in Scotland.
- STAY CONNECTED – Most hotels and restaurants have free Wi-fi, but for 24/7 connection I recommend purchasing an eSIM before flying to the United Kingdom. I use Holafly – it’s affordable, and only takes a few seconds to install. eSIM United Kingdom plans are linked here (use code BUCKETLISTBUMS for 5% off).
Victoria Street | The Vennel Steps
WHEN TO VISIT EDINBURGH
- APRIL-MAY – Spring brings vibrant green landscapes, blooming flowers and bustling local markets to Edinburgh, all with significantly smaller crowds than the summer months.
- JULY-AUGUST – Peak festival season transforms the city into a global hub for arts, comedy and theater, led by the Edinburgh Festival Fringe. While the energy, street performances and long summer days are unmatched, expect massive crowds, fully booked stays and inflated prices that require planning months in advance.
- SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER – September and October bring a welcome calm back to Edinburgh as the summer festival crowds disperse and the autumn foliage starts to pop along the historic streets with shades of gold and amber. The weather is pleasantly crisp for walking with chances of rain, but it’s fitting this time of the year.
- NOVEMBER-MARCH – Winter settles in with quiet streets, moody gray skies, fog and rain – a vibe I personally love for Edinburgh.
Quiet morning in Dean Village.
HOW MANY DAYS IN EDINBURGH
Three full days in Edinburgh is a good amount of time to wander the lanes of Old Town, visit historic landmarks and dive into the food and pub scene. The compact size of Old Town makes it easy to balance the major sights, shops, independent bookshops and hidden courtyards. And if your vibe is a slower pace and deeper dive, simply extend a day or two to include more sightseeing.
The shopfronts in Old Town are incredibly charming.
PLACES TO VISIT IN EDINBURGH
CIRCUS LANE
Circus Lane just might be the most picturesque street in all of Edinburgh. Lined with ivy-draped Georgian mews houses overflowing with colorful flowers and window boxes, this charming cobblestone curve cuts right through the quiet, residential heart of Stockbridge.
COCKBURN STREET
Winding from the Royal Mile down to Waverley Station, Cockburn Street is a sweeping, curved lane that boasts dramatic Victorian Scots Baronial architecture. Lined with quirky bookshops, cozy cafes and independent boutiques, the street offers an eccentric shopping experience well away from the main tourist drags. With its steep cobblestone steps and historic stone facades, it’s one of the prettiest walks in the Old Town.
DEAN VILLAGE
This 12th century hamlet sits nestled along the Water of Leith where visitors are treated to a scenic footpath that winds past storied stone cottages, mossy walls and millstone relics. It’s a little slice of serene paradise just steps away from the bustling city center. Dean Village is most peaceful in the early morning or early evening.
EDINBURGH CASTLE
Perched dramatically on a jagged volcanic rock high above the Old Town, Edinburgh Castle completely dominates the city skyline. Once a royal residence for Scottish monarchs, the historic fortress is now Scotland’s most popular visitor attraction, home to the oldest crown jewels in Britain, the ancient Stone of Destiny, the grand Great Hall and the tiny 12th-century St. Margaret’s Chapel. Because daily visitor numbers are strictly capped, securing tickets weeks in advance is an absolute must.
MAKARS COURT
Located behind Lady Stair’s House right off the Royal Mile, Makars Court is a quiet, literary sanctuary dedicated to Scotland’s greatest writers, poets and playwrights. The cobblestone courtyard is anchored by a striking monument, with famous quotes and literary names permanently embedded into the surrounding stones. It’s easily my favorite spot in Edinburgh.
MUSEUM CONTEXT
Museum Context is a famous Harry Potter-themed shop on Victoria Street, featuring three eccentric levels of wizarding merchandise including wands, spell books, decor, souvenirs and memorabilia. Its wild interior design makes visitors feel like they are stepping right into Diagon Alley. The shop is narrow with limited space and there is usually a line to get inside.
PALACE OF HOLYROODHOUSE
Nestled right at the foot of the historic Royal Mile, the breathtaking Palace of Holyroodhouse serves as the British monarch’s official Scottish residence. When the King is away, this royal landmark opens its doors to let visitors wander the grand state apartments, Mary Queen of Scots’ historic chambers and the beautiful palace gardens. The palace is also home to the roofless ruins of Holyrood Abbey, one of the most magical spots in the entire city.
ROYAL MILE
Stretching between the Palace of Holyroodhouse and Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile forms the storied spine of Old Town, measuring one old Scots mile (about 1.8 kilometers). This picturesque cobbled lane overflows with charming little shops, cozy cafes, historic pubs and mysterious hidden closes. Wander end to end, and it feels like stepping into the pages of a centuries-old fairytale.
SCOTT MONUMENT
Scott Monument is epic. The Victorian Gothic spire dedicated to the legendary Scottish authors Sir Walter Scott looms over the Princes Street Gardens. The monument dates back to the mid-19th-century with statues of famous literary characters carved into the stone. It’s possible to climb the nearly 300 narrow steps up a spiral staircase to the top for sweeping views of Edinburgh.
STOCKBRIDGE
Stockbridge is one of the sweetest neighborhoods in Edinburgh, giving the feels of a cozy small village rather than a bustling city. The charming mews lanes are lined with elegant Georgian townhouses and stone homes overflowing with ivy, window boxes and blooming flowers. Beyond the picturesque streets, Stockbridge is famous for its independent artisan shops, unique boutiques and the bustling Sunday Stockbridge Market.
VENNEL STEPS
The Vennel Steps are an absolute must-visit in Edinburgh. Escape the busy crowds of the Royal Mile and climb this historic stone staircase to reach one of my favorite views in the city. Make your way up the roughly 50 steps, turn around and take in the breathtaking sight of Edinburgh Castle rising over the Old Town, perfectly framed by weathered stone walls and vintage street lamps.
VICTORIA STREET
Victoria Street is the colorful, double-decker lane in the Old Town widely said to have inspired Diagon Alley from the Harry Potter series. This iconic, curving street is lined with vibrant pastel shopfronts, stone bridges, independent boutiques and cozy cafes, all packed with pure storybook charm. It’s easily one of the most picturesque and popular spots in the entire city.
WRITERS MUSEUM
Nestled in the historic courtyard of Lady Stair’s House along the Royal Mile, this weathered 16th-century building holds a true literary treasure. Inside, the Writers Museum celebrates the legacies of three iconic Scottish writers – Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson – through a collection of rare personal artifacts, manuscripts and portraits.
The Writers’ Museum is free to visit in Makars’ Court. OUTFIT DETAILS: Abercrombie trench linked here.
BEST EDINBURGH BOOKSTORES
- ARMCHAIR BOOKS
- BLACKWELL’S BOOK SHOP
- EDINBURGH BOOKS
- THE EDINBURGH BOOKSHOP
- GENTLY MAD BOOKSHOP (my personal favorite)
- GOLDEN HARE BOOKS
- JOHN KAY’S SHOP
- MCNAUGHTAN’S BOOK SELLERS
- WATERSTONES
The charming Gently Mad Bookshop is filled to the brim with old, used and antique books.
BEST HOTELS IN EDINBURGH
Set within a striking 19th-century Victorian stone building just south of the city center, 23 Mayfield is a boutique guest house that oozes with cozy Scottish hospitality. The family-run retreat pairs historic architectural details with beautifully appointed, individually styled rooms overlooking quiet gardens of Arthur’s Seat.
Perched majestically at the eastern end of Princes Street, The Balmoral is often considered the crown jewel of Edinburgh. Originally opened in 1902 as the North British Station Hotel, this grand Scottish landmark is topped by an iconic 190-foot clocktower, famously kept three minutes fast to ensure railway passengers never miss a departure at adjacent Waverley Station. Inside, the five-star property offers an exquisite blend of historic elegance and modern luxury, featuring a striking marble foyer, the sunlit Palm Court and prestigious guest spaces like the JK Rowling Suite, where the author famously finished writing Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.
The Gleneagles Townhouse occupies a beautiful former bank that has been transformed into a swank members’ club and hotel. The classic Georgian architecture is paired with inspired interior details that are bold, vintage and cozy. I love the Old World vibe of the rooftop bar, and the spectacular view of Edinburgh Castle.
INTERCONTINENTAL EDINBURGH THE GEORGE
Occupying five 18th-century townhouses just outside the Old Town, the InterContinental Edinburgh The George is a historic, five-star property more moderately priced than its city-centre peers. Inside, the lovely rooms feature high ceilings, bay windows, and plush bedding, all styled with wool, tweed and classic Scottish patterns.
Kimpton Charlotte Square sits on a lovely Georgian square in New Town. Similar to the Intercontinental, the hotel occupies seven interconnected Georgian townhouses that have been completely updated with gorgeous interiors. The mix of rooms and suites offer guests a range of fun design details including retro radios, patterned wallpaper, original high ceilings, velvets, brass accents and more.
Steps from the historic Royal Mile, Old Town Chambers offers a collection of luxury serviced apartments that combine contemporary furnishings, sleek high-end kitchens and open-plan layouts with soaking tubs and plush bedrooms, making it an ideal choice for travelers seeking the comforts of home while in Edinburgh.
Prestonfield House offers the seclusion of a 20-acre estate just a few minutes from the city centre. The hotel is set in a 17th century country mansion filled to the brim with antique furniture, velvet tapestries, leather panels, wallpapers and even resident wandering peacocks. This place is a beauty.
Virgin Hotels Edinburgh is a delightful surprise. I expected a loud, neon-lit modern space based on the Virgin branding, but this is actually a sophisticated retreat tucked into historic Victorian buildings along the colorful curve of Victoria Street. It’s one of the best hotel locations in town. Inside, the rooms feature an innovative two-chamber concept that separates the dressing area from the lounge, blending historic Old Town character with refined, contemporary comfort. This was my favorite stay in Edinburgh.
Tucked right at the historic gates of Edinburgh Castle, The Witchery is an absolute favorite and a true step back in time. This boutique escape oozes Old World Gothic charm, enveloping guests in heavy oak paneling, velvet tapestries and a dramatic palette of reds, burgundy, black and gold across its legendary restaurant and suites. Its nine distinct sanctuaries – The Heriot, The Inner Sanctum, The Turret, The Sempill, The Library (which features a secret passage door!), The Armoury, The Guardroom, The Old Rectory and The Vestry – each offer something entirely unique. While it comes with a hefty price tag and demands booking months in advance, the unmatched, moody atmosphere makes every penny worth it.
I stayed in the Library Suite at The Witchery where there were three secret bookcase doors.
There were so many Gothic details in my suite.
The Witchery is tucked into hidden closes and courtyards. OUTFIT DETAILS: Mango dress linked here.
WHERE TO EAT IN EDINBURGH
- BERTIE’S PROPER FISH & CHIPS – fish & chips
- FORTITUDE COFFEE – coffee
- HAWKSMOOR – meat & seafood
- MAKARS MASH BAR – Scottish comfort food
- MARY’S MILKBAR ICE CREAM – ice cream
- LA LACONDA – Italian
- LANNA BAKERY – bakery
- MILKMAN – bakery
- TASTY BUNS BAKERY – bakery
- UNION OF GENIUS – soup
- WATERSTONE CAFE – cafe
- WITCHERY – Scottish fine dining
The abbey ruins at the Palace of Holyroodhouse are completely stunning.
BEST EDINBURGH PUBS
- THE ABBOTSFORD BAR & RESTAURANT
- BENNETS BAR
- FRANKENSTEIN’S PUB
- GUILDFORD ARMS
- WHITE HART INN
- THE WORLD’S END
Museum Context is the famous three-floor Harry Potter shop on Victoria Street.
HARRY POTTER STOPS IN EDINBURGH
- DEPARTMENT OF MAGIC – cocktail bar
- ELEPHANT HOUSE – cafe
- ENCHANTED GALAXY – shop
- GEORGE HERIOT’S SCHOOL – school
- GREYFRIARS KIRK – cemetery
- HOUSE OF MINALIMA EDINBURGH – shop
- MUSEUM CONTEXT – shop
- VICTORIA STREET – street
Delicious gelato from Mary’s Milk Bar.
GET AROUND EDINBURGH
- EDINBURGH TRAMS – Edinburgh is home to a tram network that connects the airport to the city center. The trams are also a seamless way to avoid traffic while exploring popular surrounding neighborhoods.
- LOTHIAN BUS – This public network of double-decker buses connects neighborhoods with a comprehensive web of routes 24 hours a day. Lothian uses an easy contactless pay system.
- TAXI – Edinburgh’s hackney cabs look just like London’s classic black cabs and use regulated meters for all fares.
- UBER – Uber is available 24/7 throughout Edinburgh for transport within the city or traveling to the airport.
- WALK – The historic center of Edinburgh is best explored on foot. The Old Town, Royal Mile and charming neighborhoods are easy to navigate, but be prepared for cobblestone, stone steps and hills.
Virgin Hotels Edinburgh opened in 2024, and it’s the best place to stay in Edinburgh – the design is sophisticated, and the location on Victoria Street can’t be beat.
GET TO EDINBURGH
- FLIGHT – Edinburgh Airport (EDI) is an international airport that connects Scotland’s capital to dozens of cities around the world.
- TRAIN – Edinburgh Waverley Train Station is the main train station that connects Edinburgh to several destinations across Scotland and England.
- CAR RENTAL – While you can arrive in Edinburgh by rental car, to keep it in town is more of a headache than a help due to strict road restrictions, scarce parking, and tricky traffic layouts.
Bruschetta and fresh pasta at La Locanda.
