NINH, BINH, VIETNAM: TRAVEL GUIDE TO THE NORTH’S SPECTACULAR COUNTRYSIDE
When I first visited Ninh Binh back in 2009, it was an off-the-beaten-path gem cherished by backpackers as an alternative to touristy Halong Bay. I’ve returned twice since that first trip, watching the region adapt to its growing popularity on social media. The famous hikes, boat rides and viewpoints have transformed into full blown tourist attractions, but Ninh Binh remains utterly charming and absolutely still worth a visit. Below is my complete guide to Ninh Binh including the best places to visit, viewpoints, hikes, Ninh Binh photo locations, hotels, restaurants, travel tips and more.
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Majestic views over Tam Coc Grotto from the Mua Cave viewpoint.
NINH BINH TRAVEL TIPS
- CURRENCY – The official currency of Vietnam is the Vietnam Dong. While most hotels and established restaurants take credit card, cash is a must for the boat rides in Ninh Binh, food stalls, admission tickets and guides.
- TIPPING – There is no tipping culture in Vietnam, although a 10%-15% tip is appreciated by guides who offer good service
- STAYING CONNECTED – Most hotels offer wi-fi, but for 24/7 connection it’s best to purchase an e-SIM for your cell phone.
The Lamia Bamboo Retreat just opened, and the setting is completely epic.
WHEN TO VISIT NINH BINH
- MARCH-MAY – The best time of the year to explore north Vietnam is March through May when temperatures are generally cooler with low chance of rain. Rice fields are very green this time of the year, perfect for scenery at Tam Coc Grotto and Mua Cave.
- SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER – These months can be hit or miss with weather, as they fall between the hot rainy season and the cooler months of the year.
- JUNE-AUGUST – June through August is typically the hottest and wettest time of the year to visit north Vietnam.
- DECEMBER-FEBRUARY – Expect crisp mornings, chilly afternoons and the occasional mist during the region’s coldest months of the year.
Boat parking in Ninh Binh. OUTFIT DETAILS: Target linen set linked here.
HOW MANY DAYS IN NINH BINH
TWO DAYS. If the weather cooperates, two full days is the perfect length of stay to experience everything in Ninh Binh with a pretty packed schedule. The region is small and distances aren’t too far – ideal for a two-night stop.
Hundreds of colorful lanterns light up Hoa Lu Ancient Town in the evenings, and it’s magical!
PLACES TO VISIT IN NINH BINH
BICH DONG PAGODA
Bich Dong Pagoda sits in the Ngu Nhac Mountains of Ninh Binh. The 15th century tiered temple complex is divided into lower, middle and upper levels. It starts at an iconic stone gate that sits at the end of small bridge, one of the most photographed locations in Ninh Binh. Visitors then climb more than 150 stone steps up into the mountain passing through cave grottoes, rice paddy viewpoints and temples before culminating at Chùa Thượng.
HOA LU ANCIENT TOWN
Hoa Lu Ancient Town is an overlooked gem in the Ninh Binh region. The former 10th century capital city is worth visiting in the evenings, a perfect end to a day of exploring the grottoes, peaks and rice fields. Ancient Town lines the river, and in the evenings it lights up with thousands of colorful lanterns. It’s magical, and reminds me a bit of Hoi An. Hoa Lu is a 25-minute drive from the main tourist attractions in Ninh Binh.
MUA CAVE & HANG MUA VIEWPOINT
Mua Cave sits in the heart of Ninh Binh where 500 stone steps lead to the top of Mua Mountain. The 360 panorama at the top of the peak offers sweeping views of the surrounding rice paddies, the Ngo Dong River and soaring limestone karsts. This view from the summit is one of my favorites in all of Vietnam. The actual Mua Cave is a small limestone cavern that cuts through the base of the mountain and opens up to the river valley.
TAM COC GROTTO
Often compared to Halong Bay, Tac Coc Grotto is a truly beautiful setting on the Ngo Dong River. Visitors hop onto a small boat for a dramatic two-hour journey past towering limestone outcrops, lush rice fields and incredible caverns. The boats are navigated by locals that paddle the oars with their feet. I suggest arriving early to be one of the first boats on the water for a more tranquil experience – this is the most popular tourist attractions in Ninh Binh.
TRANG AN
Trang An is another scenic boat ride option where visitors board a boat and embark on a tranquil journey down the Sao Khe River. There are three different routes to choose from: Route 1 is the classic route that covers nine caves and three temples in two and a half to three hours. Route 2 is a little shorter covering four caves and three temples in two to two and a half hours. And Route 3 is considered the most photogenic journey covering three caves, three temples and majestic views in two and half hours. The process to get on the boats is a bit touristy, but once on the river it’s quite serene. And if you’re on the boat early, you’ll avoid the mass tourism vibes.
VAN LONG NATURE RESERVE
Van Long Nature Reserve is the third and final boat option in the Ninh Binh region. It’s sits 45 minutes north of Tam Coc Grotto and is considered the largest wetland in northern Vietnam. Similar to the other settings, the rowboats glide along shallow riverbeds and cut through caves and valleys of limestone karsts. This is the least crowded of the three boat tours in Ninh Binh.
Epic tub views at the Lamia Bamboo Retreat.
WHERE TO STAY IN NINH BINH
If you can’t get a room at Lamia Bamboo Retreat or Tam Coc Garden Resort, La Lua Resort is the best alternative. The property is brand new. There are 29 rooms and villas that are simple and clean with nearby limestone peaks that serve up a lovely view. Note that it is a 25-minute drive to reach Mua Cave, Tam Coc Grotto and Bich Dong Pagoda from the hotel.
Lamia Bamboo Retreat is a brand new property that looks like something straight from Tulum or the island of Bali. This gorgeous bamboo retreat sits on a waterway near the Ngo Dong River, surrounded by rice paddies and soaring limestone karts. There are six private bamboo villas to choose from – the Crane Villa is the most epic. The resort is a 25-minute drive from the Mua Cave, Tam Coc Grotto and Bich Dong Pagoda, but only a few minutes away from the Trang An Grottoes. This place is a gem – highly recommend.
Tam Coc Garden Resort is a fabulous place to stay in Ninh Binh. The property sits in a serene setting surrounded by a soaring limestone backdrop. The resort design resembles a traditional Tonkinese village with 16 rooms nestled in eight bungalows – the Full Moon Villa is the most beautiful option. This is a highly sought after place to stay in Ninh Binh – book as far in advance as possible.
The surrounding scenery at Tam Coc Grotto is completely serene.
BEST NINH BINH RESTAURANTS VIEWS
CITRONELLA RESTAURANT
Food here can be hit or miss depending on what you order, but sitting at one of the patio tables with views of the limestone peaks is a perfectly dramatic end to a day in Ninh Binh. Cuisine is a mix of Vietnamese and Western dishes. The restaurant is located at Tam Coc Garden Resort.
FOREST SUNSET BAR
Forest Sunset Bar offers up a relaxed place for an evening bite or meal. The lakeside location is peaceful with hammocks, wooden chairs and little tables to soak in the views of the rice fields and limestone peaks. The bar and restaurant serves Vietnamese coffee, smoothies, spring rolls, noodle soups and more.
GAO RESTAURANT
Gao serves Vietnamese cuisine in an incredible waterfront setting surrounded by rice paddy fields and majestic limestone mountains. It’s located at the Lamia Bamboo Retreat, and the epic ambiance elevates the merely average food.
BEST NINH BINH CAFES
- The Boat
- Brick Coffee Shop
- Ngon Vegan Brunch
- Oliu Sourdough
There are three route options on the Trang An boat ride – we went with Route 3.
GET AROUND NINH BINH
- BICYCLE – If it isn’t too hot, bicycle is a lovely way to explore Ninh Binh and the surrounding rice fields. Most hotels provide bicycles for guests.
- CAR – If you’re visiting the main tourist sites in Ninh Binh, it’s easiest to hire a driver for the day. Alternatively, it’s possible to book a taxi from one stop to the next.
- MOTORBIKE – Motorbike or scooter rental is a popular way to get around Ninh Binh. There are rentals scattered throughout town, and most hotels and guest houses can arrange a rental.
Scenic lunch over the rice fields.
GET TO NINH BINH
- BUS – For budget travelers, Ninh Binh is connected to Hanoi by bus. The bus station is located in the city center, close to the train station.
- CAR – The two-hour drive from Hanoi by private car is the most convenient way to reach Ninh Binh.
- FLIGHT – The closest airport to Ninh Binh is the Noi Bai Internation Airport (HAN) in Hanoi. From there, it is a two hour drive by private taxi.
- TRAIN – The train station in Ninh Binh is Ga Ninh Binh, located in the city center.
The Lamia Bamboo Retreat is hands down the best place to stay in the Ninh Binh region. I booked the Crane Villa, the most spectacular stay on the property.
