PAINSWICK, ENGLAND: TRAVEL GUIDE TO THE QUEEN OF THE COTSWOLDS
Nestled in a tranquil valley on the western edge of the Cotswolds, Painswick sits frozen in time. Affectionally called the Queen of the Cotswolds, the town is a lovely cluster of winding lanes framed by honey-color cottages, potted plants and historic stone pubs. Painswick is most famous for its breathtaking St. Mary’s Churchyard surrounded by ninety-nine spectacularly manicured yew trees. Below is a complete travel guide to Painswick including my favorite places to visit, hotels, cafes, restaurants, Painswick photo locations, travel tips and more.
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A morning stroll through the 99 yew trees of St. Mary’s Church.
PAINSWICK TRAVEL TIPS
- WHAT IS THE COTSWOLDS? – The Cotswolds is a region of the English countryside spread across the five counties of Gloucestershire, Oxfordshire, Warwickshire, Wiltshire and Worcestershire.
- HONESTY STALLS – The honesty stalls are a town tradition you might spot when walking through Stow-on-the-Wold. They’re basically a small display of homemade cake, chutney, jam or baked goods outside a house where you’re expected to leave a small payment if you take something.
- GRADE II BUILDINGS – When a building in the Cotswolds is referred to as Grade II, it means there is a special interest in the structure and it’s been placed on the Statutory List of Buildings of Special Architectural or Historic Interest by Historic England.
- CURRENCY – The official currency of the UK is the British pound. Almost everywhere takes credit card, but it’s always helpful to have cash handy for smaller purchases.
- TIPPING – It’s customary to leave a 10-15% tip for good service.
I discovered the loveliest homes in Painswick.
HOW MUCH TIME IN PAINSWICK?
If you plan to visit the village, St Mary’s Churchyard and the Rocco Garden, I suggest at least a half day in Painswick. That’s plenty of time to see everything at an unrushed pace, and maybe even grab a bite while in town.
WHEN TO VISIT PAINSWICK
- APRIL-MAY – Spring season in the Cotswolds is lovely with green landscapes, blooming flowers, bustling village markets and less crowds than the summer months.
- JUNE-AUGUST – Summer offers the best weather in the Cotswolds with frequent sunshine and infrequent rain. This is also the busiest time of the year to visit.
- SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER – Another lovely time to visit the Cotswolds is Autumn when the air is crisp and the leaves turn vibrant shades of orange and yellow. It’s also shoulder season – hotel prices decrease and summer crowds disperse. Note that this is also the start of the rain, so expect cold temperatures and the occasional shower.
- DECEMBER-MARCH – It certainly is a mood this time of the year, if you don’t mind grey skies, fog and rain. Otherwise, avoid a winter visit to the Cotswolds.
St. Mary’s Churchyard.
PLACES TO VISIT IN PAINSWICK
MEDIEVEL TOWN
You’d think these period settings would start to become repetitive in the Cotswolds, but they never do. And the medieval town of Painswick is especially lovely. The stone buildings scattered along the lanes are incredibly well-preserved, and the setting is absolutely charming. It’s a flurry of steeply pitched rooftops, mullioned windows, gables, chimneys and perfectly carved stone.
ST. MARY’S CHURCHYARD
St. Mary’s is a medieval church that dates back to the 14th century. The church itself is pretty, but it’s the churchyard filled with 99 ancient, perfectly trimmed yew trees that makes this a must-visit. The striking setting feels like a stroll into a painting.
ROCCO GARDEN
A Rocco Garden is an 18th century ornamental garden characterized by asymmetry, winding pathways, whimsical decor, pastel colors and structures and statues. The only surviving Rocco Garden in the United Kingdom is located in Painswick, and it’s an absolute must-visit when passing through.
Cotswolds Way cuts directly through Painswick.
BEST PAINSWICK HOTELS
This is one of the best hotels in the region. The Painswick is an 18th century Palladian-style country house located at the edge of the little village. A stay here is an absolute treat. The rooms are completely cozy, spacious, bright and clean. They offer all the modern creature comforts without sacrificing any countryside charm. The grounds are equally lovely, and the restaurant is one of the best in this neck of the Cotswolds.
The Painswick is one of the best places to stay in the Cotswolds.
WHERE TO EAT IN PAINSWICK
JUNIPER
Juniper is a lovely coffee shop located in the heart of town. I stopped in for a delicious hot chocolate and morning bun, but it’s known for coffee as well.
THE OAK
This popular restaurant sits in the middle of the village. It’s a menu of modern British cuisine – goat cheese bruschetta, homemade seafood chowder, steak and Guinness pie, beer battered fish & chips and aubergine coconut curry.
SAUCE
Sauce is the renowned restaurant inside The Painswick that offers both a la carte and tasting menus. Head Chef Jamie McCallum is at the helm, crafting a menu that bursts with fresh, seasonal and local ingredients. The dining room is relaxed, but beautiful with sweeping views over Painswick Valley. Sauce is also a spot for afternoon tea.
ST. MICHAEL’S RESTAURANT
This little village bistro is nothing fancy, but offers a cozy stop for lunch or dinner in town. St. Michael’s is located in a historic stone building where Chef Marin Petre has put together a selection of English and European dishes including pan friend scallops, risotto, beef stroganoff, sea bass, tenderloin and more.
Breakfast stop for hot cocoa and a morning bun, at Juniper.
GET TO STOW-ON-THE-WOLD
- AIR – The Bristol Airport (BRS) is the closest airport to Painswick, located 45 miles north. For more connections, London Heathrow Airport (LHR) is 98 miles away.
- TRAIN – For travelers arriving to the Cotswolds by train, the closest station to Painswick is the Stroud Railway Station located 4 miles from town.
- CAR – There is some street parking in the village if you arrive early or late in the day, as well as a paid lot.
Painswick was the biggest surprise of the trip.
