CROATIA: THE ULTIMATE TWO-WEEK ITINERARY + TRAVEL GUIDE

ARRIVE IN DUBROVNIK

From the Dubrovnik airport, travel to your hotel by taxi, shuttle bus, private transfer or car rental.

• TAXI – There is a taxi stand located just outside the Arrivals terminal at the airport.
• PRIVATE TRANSFERS – Dubrovnik Transfer is the best private transfer option. The drivers wait for guests with signs just outside of baggage claim at the airport with ultra lux cars and vans.
• SHUTTLE BUS – The cheapest journey to town from the airport is the Dubrovnik Airport Shuttle Bus. It parks outside the terminal exit and stops at Pile Gate before continuing onward to the main station in Gruz Port. The journey to town is 30-40 minutes, and tickets can be purchased on the bus.
• CAR RENTALS – Most car rental agencies have outposts at the Dubrovnik Airport. Parking isn’t the easiest around Old Town. I suggest not renting a car while in Dubrovnik. You won’t need it – almost everything is walking distance. Best to just rent for the day to accommodate any day trips.

4 PM: OLD TOWN (sightsee)

Spend the remainder of the day exploring iconic Old Town on foot. A stroll through the pedestrian maze of limestone alleys is like a step back in time. There’s lots to see, and it will take a few visits to cover everything. Places to see include Loggia Square, Onofrio Fountain, Rector’s Palace, Dubrovnik Cathedral, Pile Gate & Ploče Gate and the Stradun. Use your first afternoon to check a handful of places off this list.

6:30 PM: LADY PI-PI (dinner)

Grab dinner at one of the best restaurants in Dubrovnik – Lady Pi-Pi. Enjoy the fresh seafood, rooftop ambiance, warm service and the epic views. It’s a bit of a hike up the Old Town steps to reach the restaurant, but the delicious food and panorama over the city are not to be missed. Lady Pi-Pi is tiny, and they do not take reservations. Arrive just before the restaurant opens, and you won’t wait too long for a table.

8 PM: AROMA GELATO (dessert)

Grab a scoop of gelato for dessert at one of the most popular gelato chains in Croatia.

Lady Pi-Pi | Old Town

day 2

All destinations and restaurants listed below are within walking distance to each other – no car or taxi needed.

7 AM: WEST HARBOR (sightsee)

The stunning West Harbor sits just outside the city walls, a short stroll from Pile Gate. This area is home to some of my favorite views of Old Town, Lovrijenac and the West Harbor doors built into the cliff.

8 AM: CITY WALLS (sightsee)

The 2 km stroll along the medieval walls of Old Town is the highlight of any trip to Dubrovnik. The topside panoramas of the city are sweeping along a path that leads through Minceta Tower, Bokar Fort, Revelin Fort and Pile Gate. The walk takes approximately 1.5 to two hours, and there are three entry points at Inner Pile Gate, St. Lucas Fortress and St. John’s Fortress.

10:30 AM: LOVRIJENAC (sightsee)

Also known as St. Lawrence’s Fortress, Lovrijenac is a spectacular fortification that sits atop jagged cliffs 37-meters above the sea. The fortress peninsula faces the city walls, providing a great vantage point for photos of Old Town. Your admission ticket to the City Walls includes admission to Lovrijenac.

12 PM: SULIC BEACH (beach)

Sulic Beach is a tiny beach at the end of a long inlet. It sits in a medieval nook, tucked away below Lovrijenac. Love the vibe at this beach.

2:30PM: DANCE BEACH (beach)

This is a swim ladder haven, a spectacular setting for an afternoon of swimming and sunbathing. Dance Beach is walking distance from Dubrovnik, just beyond Sulic Beach.

4:30PM: BUZA BARS I & II (drinks + swim)

Built into the cliffs below the medieval walls, the city’s two Buza Bars are lovely spots to grab a cold beer on a summer afternoon. The bars sits tucked away in the same back corner of Old Town. Pick one of the bars to visit today. Holes in the wall (literally) lead to small passageways that open up to sweeping views of the Adriatic Sea where white umbrellas are scattered up the cliff. Grab a table and watch the cliff jumpers plunge anywhere from 20 to 60 feet into the water. A great spot for a swim.

7 PM: FISH RESTAURANT PROTO (dinner)

This family-owned restaurant has been around for more than 100 years, and sits in the heart of Old Town. The food is Michelin reviewed and the speciality is seafood, of course. While the menu changes based on availability, offerings often include fresh fish, mussels, shellfish, crab and scallops. Reservations recommended.

Dubrovnik CIty Walls

Sulic Beach | Kolorina Beach

day 3

All destinations and restaurants listed below are within walking distance to each other – no car or taxi needed.

9 AM: THE RECTOR’S PALACE (sightsee)

This stunning Renaissance Gothic structure dates back to the mid-15th century, but today a museum sits inside The Rector’s Palace. It’s an incredible setting to stroll amongst the stone archways, colonnades and carved pillars. It can get busy, so best to visit right when it opens.

11 AM: SVETI JAKOV (beach)

A slightly less touristed beach, only because of its distance from Old Town. It can still be reached on foot, just follow the road to Banje Beach, but continue walking for another 15 minutes. The quiet beach has loungers and umbrellas available for rent, and there is a small restaurant that serves drinks and food.

2 PM: BANJE BEACH (beach)

Dubrovnik’s main beach is one of the prettiest in the country, thanks to its spectacular views of Old Town. Banje Beach sits just south of the city walls, a five-minute walk from Ploče Gate. The beach is large, but it does get busy, especially during the summer months. For a spectacular view of Old Town and the Adriatic, stop for a photo at the top of the steps that lead down to the beach.

5 PM: OLD TOWN (sightsee)

Enjoy another evening walk through Old Town before dinner. Get lost in the maze of medieval alleys, and continue to check these sights off your list: Loggia Square, Onofrio Fountain, Rector’s Palace, Dubrovnik Cathedral, Pile Gate & Ploče Gate and the Stradun (main boulevard).

7 PM: GRADSKA KAVANA ARSENAL (dinner)

Gradska Kavana Arsenal sits on one of the main square’s in Old Town – the perfect setting for outdoor dining during the summer, especially in the evening. Menu includes Croatian specialties like mussels, sea bass, seafood risotto, oysters and more. Reservations recommended.

8:30 PM: BOCCAPIENA (dessert)

Boccapiena serves up more than 15 delicious flavors of ice cream, and very cute ice cream bars.

Rector’s Palace

Banje Beach

day 4

All destinations and restaurants listed below are within walking distance to each other – no car or taxi needed.

7 AM: MOUNT SRD. (hike + viewpoint)

Visit the top of Mount Srd. for panoramic views over all of Dubrovnik. The trail head is located just outside of the Old Town city walls. The hike up is free of charge, or there is a gondola that can be accessed via a paid admission ticket. I recommend hiking up in the morning before it gets too hot, and then take the gondola down.

10 AM: LOKRUM ISLAND (beach)

Lokrum Island is a lovely day trip destination from Dubrovnik. Ferries leave twice an hour from Porporela, located just outside of the Old Town walls, and it’s about a 20-minute journey. The island is small, home to a Benedictine Monastery, Dead Sea swimming hole and botanical garden, all reachable on foot. And then there’s the real reason to visit – the Adriatic coastline, riddled with rocks and swim ladders for an idyllic day of sunbathing. Ferry tickets can be purchased at the boat – no advance purchase necessary.

3 PM: BUZA BARS I & II (drinks + swim)

Today, visit the other Buza Bar. Built into the cliffs below the medieval walls, the city’s two Buza Bars are lovely spots to grab a cold beer on a summer day. The bars sits tucked away in the same back corner of Old Town. Holes in the wall (literally) lead to small passageways that open up to sweeping views of the Adriatic Sea where white umbrellas are scattered up the cliff. Grab a table and watch the cliff jumpers plunge anywhere from 20 to 60 feet into the water. A great spot for a swim.

5 PM: PEPPINO’S GELATO (gelato)

Artisanal gelato shop with two locations in Old Town. Peppino’s serves a mix of both classic and eccentric flavors including Stracciatella, Pistachio, Chocomenta and Mango Sorbet.

5:30 PM: OLD TOWN (sightsee)

Enjoy another evening walk through Old Town before dinner. Get lost in the maze of medieval alleys, and continue to check these sights off your list: Loggia Square, Onofrio Fountain, Rector’s Palace, Dubrovnik Cathedral, Pile Gate & Ploče Gate and the Stradun (main boulevard).

8 PM: LUCIN KANTUN (dinner)

Luncin Kantun occupies a quiet alleyway, just off the Stradun in Old Town. Menu offers a variety of delicious fresh pastas and seafood. Reservations recommended.

Hotel Excelsior

day 5

A rental car (or taxi) is necessary to reach the day trip destinations below.

8 AM: RENTAL CAR PICK-UP

There are car rental agencies located along Ul. Frana Supila, the road above Banje Beach. This is an easy, convenient option for day rentals. Reserve the car a couple days in advance.

9 AM: SOKOL TOWER (sightsee)

This medieval hilltop fortification is driving distance from Dubrovnik. Visit at opening and you’ll have the castle-like structure all to yourself before heading to Pasjaca Beach.

10:30 AM: PASJACA BEACH (beach)

Pasjaca Beach sits just outside of Dubrovnik, and makes for a wonderful day trip from King’s Landing. It’s a 30-minute drive south to the beach’s small parking lot, or a 20-minute drive from Sokol Tower. Follow the trail along the coast to a steep staircase built into the cliffs. It leads straight down to Pasjaca’s spectacular crystal clear shallows. There are no facilities – pack a lunch and spend the day sunbathing and swimming. This is one of the prettiest beaches in Croatia.

4 PM: CAVTAT (sightsee)

A seaside village located approximately 18 km from Dubrovnik, an easy stop on the return trip from Pasjaca. The historic waterfront is lined with picturesque churches, al fresco dining and tiny shops.

7 PM: RENTAL CAR RETURN

Return the rental car, and then walk to Old Town for dinner.

8 PM: OYSTER & SUSHI BAR BOTA (dinner)

Yes, one of my favorite restaurants in Dubrovnik is a sushi spot. And I’m not alone. It’s hard to nab a table at Oyster & Sushi Bar Bota during the summer months. Reservations are a must. Menu is filled with fresh sushi, sashimi, nigiri and teriyaki plates.

WHERE TO STAY IN DUBROVNIK

DUBROVNIK FINEST APARTMENTS

A beautiful set of apartments located very close to the Old Town gates. The Dubrovnik Finest Apartments Studio with the Landmark View is the nicest of the three options they offer. The space has lots of natural light, which looks even brighter thanks to the white and neutral color palette. 

HOTEL BELLEVUE

Hotel Bellevue is a ultra luxe, contemporary property that boasts more than 90 rooms and suites that are clean, modern and spacious. The property sits on beautiful Miramare Bay, a 15-minute walk from Old Town.

HOTEL EXCELSIOR DUBROVNIK

For travelers looking to splurge in Croatia, this is the place to do it. Like most properties located along this stretch of coast, Hotel Excelsior is built into the rocks, and the seaside location is incorporated into almost every aspect of the hotel. The rocky sunbathing area is perched just above water where guests are treated to dreamy views of Old Town, and the surrounding Adriatic Sea feeds the hotel’s spectacular saltwater pool. Additionally, the on-site restaurant Prora seats guests beneath medieval archways that open up to the sea.

HOTEL KOMPAS DUBROVNIK

Hotel Kompas is beautiful modern property that overlooks Lapad Bay. It sits just three miles from Old Town, but that translates to a 45-minute walk or 20-minutes by public bus. Not ideal for tourists that want to be within a stone’s throw of the city, but a quiet retreat for those that want an escape. The hotel is equipped with a pool and dozens of sunbeds and umbrellas on neighboring Lapad Bay.

HOTEL STARI GRAD

Hotel Stari Grad is one of the only hotels located within the Dubrovnik city walls. Formerly a 16th century nobleman’s house, the boutique property has been completely gutted and renovated into nine rooms and five suites. One of the best places to stay within Old Town.

NAVE APARTMENT

Brand new apartment located in the Ploce neighborhood, a 10-minute walk to Old Town. It doesn’t have the Old World character as some of the other apartments you’ll find in Dubrovnik, but the clean, modern space makes this place a solid option.

OLD TOWN DUBROVNIK APARTMENT

This one-bedroom apartment is located up the steps on the climb to Lady Pi-Pi. The Airbnb rental is lovely, although a bit dark because of it’s location. It sits inside a 17th century building, featuring exposed stone walls, modern furnishings and lovely decor.

OLD TOWN L

Old Town L is a lovely apartment that blends modern cues with the space’s exposed medieval stone wall. The white, orange and tan color scheme make the airy digs especially cheery. The property sits in the flat part of Old Town, a perk for guests who want to avoid the city’s infamous stone steps. It isn’t a huge space, but the apartment can comfortably fit two people.

ST. JOSEPH’S BOUTIQUE HOTEL

Another wonderful option within Old Town that blends the historic setting with modern comforts. St. Joseph’s Boutique Hotel offers five rooms that are rustic chic with exposed stone walls, wood beam ceilings and wooden shutters. The Deluxe King Suite is particularly spacious and lovely.

TWO STEPS APARTMENT

A clean, comfortable apartment with loads of character located in the heart of Old Town. There isn’t a ton of natural light inside the Two Steps Apartment, which might be claustrophobic for some. It can also be a bit noisy from passing pedestrians – just the nature of the alley where it’s built. If neither are an issue, the space is a very good value.

VILLA DUBROVNIK

Located down the street from Hotel Excelsior, Villa Dubrovnik is a five-star property just 15-minutes walking from Ploče Gate. The hotel’s location is stunning, built into the cliffs overlooking idyllic views of the Adriatic. The sunbathing area is particularly lovely with white loungers and white umbrellas scattered along the rocks. Rooms are spacious and modern, all with views of the sea.

Hotel Excelsior

KORCULA

(days 6-9)

Often overshadowed by flashy neighbor Hvar, the island of Korcula really holds its own as a must-visit destination in Croatia. It’s a very easy place to visit, conveniently located between Dubrovnik and Hvar. The ferry drops passengers along the city walls of Korcula Town where most visitors end up staying, eating, drinking and swimming. The picturesque meandering cobbled lanes, ancient houses, fortress towers and storied churches in this Old Town are reminiscent of a storybook kingdom. Below is a detailed four-day Korcula itinerary. For even more information, check out my Korcula Travel Guide.

Korcula Town Viewpoint

day 6

AM: FERRY TO KORCULA

Travel to Korcula by ferry. Ferry schedules, timetables and tickets are available through Ferry Hopper.

4 PM: KORCULA TOWN (sightsee)

Korcula Town is the beating heart of the island, home to boutique hotels, restaurants, bars, churches, tour agencies, water taxi stands and the main tourist port. It’s a mini version of Dubrovnik, a medieval maze of narrow cobbled lanes. My favorite times of the day to visit are early morning when it’s quiet and empty, and in the evening when town is abuzz with summer energy. Spend your first evening on the island strolling through the walled city before dinner.

7 PM: MARCO POLO (dinner)

Marco Polo is the best restaurant in Korcula Town. It sits on a narrow cobbled alleyway where the handful of tables are occupied 24/7 during the summer. My favorite item on the menu is the grilled sea bream and potatoes w/chard. Completely delicious. Reservations are a must.

9 PM: AROMA GELATO (dessert)

Aroma scoops delicious homemade gelato, offering more than two dozen flavors including orange with ginger, blueberry, chocolate with orange, raspberry, rum raisin, tiramisu, peppermint chocolate and more.

Korcula Town

Korcula Town | Lesic Dimitri Palace

day 7

A rental car (or taxi) is necessary to reach the day trip destinations below.

9 AM: CAR RENTAL PICK-UP

Arrange a one-day car (or motor scooter) rental in advance – there are a few agencies along the road in front of the steps to Old Town. Pick-up the car when the agency opens in the morning, and then head out for the day.

9:30 AM: KORCULA VIEWPOINT (sightsee)

Two spectacular viewpoints that overlook Korcula Town are located on Novi Puti Road (aka Ul 45 on Google Maps). The panorama from up here is the best on the island offering up clear views of the walled city surrounded by the sea. There are two viewpoints – make sure to visit both. The second one is located a little further down the road (literally a 45-second walk). Roadside parking is available along Novi Puti Road.

10:30 AM: PUPNATSKA LUKA BEACH (beach)

This is the prettiest beach on the island. Pupnatska Luka sits on the south coast of Korcula, a 30-minute drive from Korcula Town. The expansive pebble beach is a large protected cove where calm, clear water sparkles every shade of turquoise. There are sun beds and umbrellas available to rent, or lots of space to lay out a towel for free.

2:30 PM: ZITNA BAY (beach)

Another gorgeous beach located on the island’s south coast. It’s a lot smaller than Pupnatska Luka, but the rocky slabs for sunbathing are quite the vibe. Zitna’s narrow channel of intense turquoise water reminds me a lot of the calas on Mallorca.

5:30 PM: KONOBA MATE (dinner)

This small family-run konoba is located in Pupnat Village. They serve up a variety of fresh handmade pastas, homemade sauces and sides that are absolutely delicious. Favorites were the homegrown tomato sauce, almond pesto with homegrown cherry tomatoes and the fresh bread. Reservations recommended.

7:30 PM: CAR RENTAL RETURN

Return the rental car.

Pupnatska Luka Beach

Zitna Bay

day 8

All destinations, restaurants and water taxi stands listed below are within walking distance to each other – no car or taxi needed.

8:30 AM: ISMAELLI STREET GALLERY WALL (sightsee)

This little lane located just off of St. Mark’s Square in Korcula Town is lined with picture frames, potted plants, little trinkets and a small stone bench for photos. Very charming.

9 AM: ST. MARK’S SQUARE & CATHEDRAL (sightsee)

The Gothic Renaissance church dates back to the 15th century, and it’s a beauty. Climb the narrow staircase to the top of the bell tower for spectacular views over the town and the surrounding sea. This bright, beautiful square sits in the heart of Korcula Town.

10 AM: WATER TAXI

Board a water taxi just outside along the Korcula Town walls for a day of island hopping. Both Badija Island and Vrnik Island are part of an island hopping ticket the water taxis offer. Tickets can be purchased from the water taxi kiosks located along the waterfront before boarding the boat.

10:30 AM: BADIJA ISLAND (beach)

The Škoji Archipelago is made up of 20 small islands, of which Badija is the largest. Water taxis drop visitors at a small pier that is a short walk to a beautiful 14th century Franciscan Monastery and a small restaurant (the only one on the island). The water surrounding Badija is calm and clear, but there isn’t much in terms of a proper beach. It’s actually the free roaming deer that make the island so memorable. They are everywhere – the church, the beach and the pier. A word of warning: the deer are beautiful, but they are looking for food, and can be aggressive.

12 PM: VRNIK ISLAND (beach)

After a short visit to Badija, catch the water taxi to Vrnik Island for an afternoon of sunbathing. Vrnik is the prettiest island in the Škoji Archipelago. There are historic quarries scattered around the island, once home to craftsmen and and stonemasons, but it’s the sparkling shallow waters that visitors flock to. And one of the prettiest beaches is just steps away from the water taxi pier.

6 PM: MASSIMO COCKTAIL BAR (drinks)

The rooftop of a medieval tower has been converted into a cocktail bar, and it’s one of the most popular summer spots on the island. The views and ambiance are amazing, especially at sunset. Reservations recommended.

7:30 PM: DE CANAVELLIS (dinner)

This is the tastiest option for fresh, thin crust pizza on Korcula, and the tower ambiance in the evening is pretty fabulous.

day 9

A rental car (or taxi) is necessary to reach the ferry stand in Vela Luka.

9:30 AM: FERRY TO PROIZD ISLAND

The ferry port to Proizd Island is located in the town of Vela Luka. To get to Vela Luka from Korcula Town it’s a long bus ride, or you can rent a car for the day. Roundtrip ferry tickets to Proizd Island can be purchased at the pier.

10 AM: PROIZD ISLAND (beach)

This is one of Croatia’s hidden gems. Proizd sits off of Korcula’s western tip, accessible via a 35-minute ferry from Vela Luka (there is a set timetable for departures and returns). The uninhibited island is surrounded by intensely clear, turquoise and sparking water. There are four main beaches on the island – Veli Bili Bok, Srednji Bili Bok, Donj Bili Bok and Batalo (all walking distance to each other).

5 PM: FERRY TO KORCULA

Return to Vela Luka by ferry.

8 PM: LD RESTAURANT (dinner)

The Michelin star LD Restaurant is part of the Lesic Dimitri Palace where tables sit overlooking the Adriatic Sea. The tasting menu changes but can include nigiri, scallops with black truffle, wagyu, prawn gyoza, beef tenderloin and lemon ice cream amaretto.

WHERE TO STAY ON KORCULA

APARTMENT MARINA

Apartment Marina is located along the waterfront facing spectacular views of Korcula Town. It’s a short stroll to reach the sights, restaurants, cafes and shops. The renovated apartment is modern and clean, making for a very comfortable stay.

APARTMENT NONA KATA

A small apartment located in Korcula Town close to the main square – everything is within walking distance. The exposed stone walls bring a bit of character to the space that is otherwise very simple. Apartment Nona Kata is clean and up to date, but nothing fancy. A nice budget option for Korcula.

LESIC DIMITRI PALACE

There are very few luxury options on Korcula, so best to book Lesic Dimitri Palace well in advance. It’s the loveliest property on the island, located on the most charming street in Old Town. Formerly an 17th century Bishop’s Palace, this Relais & Chateaux property has been converted into six exquisite rooms, suites and residence villas. All the spaces are beautifully ornate, but the private wood carved balcony of the Venice residence is especially lovely.

LUXURY LOFT IN ISMAELLI PALACE

Possibly the most special lodging location in Korcula. A beautiful Luxury Loft sits in the 600-year-old Ismaelli Palace, right off of St. Mark’s Square. The space is roomy and modern with historic design cues that give the two-bedroom apartment loads of character. And the central balcony that surrounds an airy medieval courtyard is absolutely breathtaking.

MAGICAL OASIS

Magical Oasis is a lovely one-bedroom apartment located in Korcula Town behind Kanavelic Tower. The space is small, but clean and cozy with stone walls and wood beam ceilings.

TARA’S LODGE

Modern boutique hotel located on the water. The rooms at Tara’s Lodge are a clean, simple and minimalist chic. It’s the beachfront location that is the real selling point. The water is calm and beautiful with a small stretch of beach outfitted with bean bag loungers and umbrellas.

day 10

AM: FERRY TO HVAR

Travel to Hvar by ferry. Ferry schedules, timetables and tickets are available through Ferry Hopper. If you are staying outside of Hvar Town, pick-up a rental car in town upon arrival for your length of stay (Antonio Rent is a good option). A five-day car rental is NOT necessary if you’re staying in Hvar Town.

4 PM: HVAR TOWN (sightsee)

After settling into your hotel, start to explore the gorgeous waterfront that is Hvar Town. You’ll discover a labyrinth of cobbled corridors lined with boutiques, bars, restaurants, gelato shops and cottages. Much of the town is made from beautiful white stone that looks straight out of a storybook.

5 PM: HVAR ARSENAL BALCONY (sightsee)

Climb up to the Hvar Arsenal Balcony for a lovely view of the town, waterfront and looming Spanish Fortress.

6 PM: BACKLANE CRAFT BAR (drinks)

This aptly named cocktail bar sits tucked away on a back lane in Hvar Town. Attractive outdoor seating lines a little square – perfect for people watching in the evenings. Drinks here are delicious!

8 PM: GIAXA (dinner)

Giaxa sits tucked away in Hvar Town where tables line a medieval alleyway and fill an open air courtyard. The specialty at Giaxa is the lobster tagliatelle, and it’s worth every penny of the 80 to 100 euros (pricing based on the weight of the lobster). I would travel all the way back to Hvar, just to eat this meal again.

day 11

A rental car (or taxi) is necessary to reach the day trip destinations below.

8 AM: CAR RENTAL PICK-UP

Arrange a one-day car rental – Antonio Rent is a great option located at the edge of Hvar Town. The agency is small, best to reserve a car well in advance.

9 AM: DUBOVICA BEACH (beach)

Dubovica is a charming beach where a 17th century church and an old summer house sit perched on the rocks. It’s a 10-minute drive from town, and another 10-15-minute walk down a dirt path to reach the beach. Dubovica sits in a cove, so the crystal clear water is incredibly calm.

1 PM: ZARACE BEACH (beach)

Zarace Beach is truly epic. It’s home to two coves that face opposite directions – Malo Zarace and Velo Zarace. Both are walkable from the same parking area. I particularly love Velo Zarace, an inlet of deep turquoise water that literally twinkles under the Adriatic sunshine. A very serene place to spend the day swimming and sunbathing.

4:30 PM: STARI GRAD (sightsee)

This is the oldest settlement on Hvar. The Old Town is completely picturesque, and houses some really amazing restaurants. You’ll be amazed at the low key vibes of Stari Grad compared to Hvar Town.

5:30 PM: TVRDALJ CASTLE (sightsee)

Tvrdalj Castle is a hidden gem in Stari Grad. A former summer residence of 16th century poet Petar Hektorovic, the Renaissance building is completely serene. Particularly lovely is the beautiful open air courtyard at the entrance where a blue saltwater pool is filled with dozens of mullet.

6:30 PM ANTIKA (dinner)

Solid restaurant in Stari Grad that specializes in fresh pastas, seafood and risotto.

day 12

If you’re staying in Hvar Town, all destinations and restaurants listed below are within walking distance to each other – no car or taxi needed.

8 AM: SPANISH FORTRESS (sightsee)

This is a short, steep hike from town that is best to do in the morning, especially during the summer. The 16th century fortress sits perched over Hvar and offers sweeping views of the town below, as well as the Pakleni Islands. Explore the fort’s corridors, chapel, a small jail, bastions and museum. The walk up from town takes approximately 20 minutes – it’s also possible to drive.

11 AM: FRANCISCAN MONASTERY BEACH (sightsee)

This beach sits at the edge of Old Town. It’s small, and can get very busy in summer season. But sunbathing here is an absolute must. The beach is located next to the Franciscan Monastery, a beautiful 15th century church that serves up the prettiest scenery for a day on the water.

3 PM: BONJ BEACH (beach)

The water is calm, perfect for swimming. It’s home to Beach Club Hvar for beachgoers that want a luxury beach day. And for visitors that don’t want to pay $50-$300 USD for sun beds and overwater cabanas, there is also a free stretch of beach open to the public.

7 PM: DALMATINO (dinner)

Make reservations well in advance, and request an outdoor table. This is the most popular restaurant on the island. Menu highlights include grilled John Dory, Gregada, grilled scampi and the selection of gnocchi.

9 PM: CENTRAL PARK CLUB (drinks)

Worth a stop to enjoy a drink in the lovely outdoor seating under the restaurant’s beautiful bougainvillea. Best to visit in the evenings when there is live music – a great vibe.

day 13

10 AM-4 PM: BOAT DAY

Hvar is an amazing place to explore by boat, and most companies do not require a boat license, as long as you are a responsible driver (experience preferred, but usually not necessary). There agencies that rent boats in Hvar Town, and also guys on the waterfront with rentals. We used Hvar Experience to rent our boat. Places to visit by boat:

• PAKLENI ISLANDS – The Pakleni Islands is a dreamy archipelago sits just off the coast of Hvar, also accessible by water taxi. The island waters are very calm for swimming – lots of serene beaches and secret coves. Plan to stop at Palmizana Beach midday for lunch, it’s a small bay on Sveti Klement that is home to a handful of picturesque bars and restaurants. The boat ride over from Hvar is only 15 minutes.
• RED ROCKS – Epic red cliffs and sea cave along Hvar’s southern coast, only accessible by boat.
• DUBOVICA BEACH – See description on Day 11 (accessible by boat or car)
• ZARACE BEACH – See description on Day 11 (accessible by boat or car)

7 PM: FIG (dinner)

Absolutely delicious restaurant located in the back of town that’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner (and all are delicious!). The menu is filled with tasty fare including spicy eggs, Chimichurri potatoes, watermelon + mint salad, California toast and delicious burritos.

8:30 PM: AROMA GELATO (dessert)

Aroma scoops delicious homemade gelato, offering more than two dozen flavors including orange with ginger, blueberry, chocolate with orange, raspberry, rum raisin, tiramisu, peppermint chocolate and more.

WHERE TO STAY IN SPLIT

CENTRAL SQUARE HERITAGE HOTEL

The interiors are a bit dated, but the Central Square Heritage Hotel location in Old Town is absolutely fabulous. It’s in the middle of everything – all sights, shops, bars and restaurants are just steps away.

LUXURY ROOMS MA DE DOMINIS

Luxury Rooms Ma de Dominis is an Adults-Only luxury boutique hotel centrally located in Split. Rooms are beautifully designed with loads of character including exposed stone walls, and wood beam ceilings.

VITELLI APARTMENTS

This is a set of three clean, modern units located in Old Town near Diocletian’s Palace – a studio, a double room and a large apartment. Vitelli Apartments feature stone walls, wood floors and wood beams along the ceilings.