ISTRIA, CROATIA: A COMPLETE SEVEN-DAY ITINERARY & TRAVEL GUIDE
Istria is a peninsula in the north Adriatic Sea that is part of Croatia, Slovenia and Italy. Most of the region is occupied by Croatia, a sprawling landscape of hilltop villages, rolling vineyards, truffle hunting, colorful Old Towns and sparking coastline. It’s absolutely dazzling, and one of my favorite parts of the country. Istria isn’t easy to reach, and is often overlooked by tourists who visit Dubrovnik, Hvar and Split. But for the visitors who make the journey north, a slightly more off-the-beaten-path experience awaits. Below is my detailed one-week Istria itinerary and travel guide that includes stops in Rovinj, Pula, Groznjan, Bale, Brsec, Motovun, Hum and Cape Kamenjak.
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Old Town Rovinj
DAY 1: ROVINJ
ARRIVE IN ROVINJ
Welcome to Istria! You’ll likely arrive by way of air, sea or ferry as you make your way to Rovinj.
- AIR – If you fly into the Pula Airport, rent a car and make the one-hour journey to Rovinj. You won’t need the car every day, but it’s easier to keep it for the duration of your stay. If your hotel or Airbnb does not have a parking lot, there is a large paid lot located right next to Old Town on the waterfront.
- FERRY – The ferry from Venice is my favorite way to get to Istria. It’s direct, the ferry is spacious and the journey only takes three hours. And the ferry docks at the Rovinj Port, a five-minute walk to Old Town.
- CAR – If you arrive in Istria by car and your hotel or Airbnb does not have a parking lot, there is a large paid lot located right next to Old Town on the waterfront.
4 PM: OLD TOWN (sightsee)
Spend your first afternoon in Rovinj exploring the stone lanes of beautiful Old Town. This is a pedestrian-only zone where everything is accessible on foot. Marvel at the colorful corridors and alleyways that will remind you of Venice, and make sure to visit Balbi’s Arch, Basilica of St. Euphemia & Bell Tower and Piazza Matteotti over the course of the week.
7 PM: LA FONDIARIA (dinner)
This is the loveliest little restaurant that sits tucked away on an alleyway in Old Town. Menu offerings include a variety of fresh seafood – the sea bass filet is particularly delicious. Service is gracious and fast. Reservations are a must – request outdoor seating.
Old Town Rovinj
Plaza Balota | Old Town Rovinj
DAY 2: ROVINJ
All destinations and restaurants below are within walking distance to each other – no car or taxi necessary.
8 AM: OLD TOWN (sightsee)
Enjoy the early morning quiet of Old Town. While Rovinj’s evening energy is a vibe, it’s nice to also experience the quiet solitude of the early hours.
10 AM: PLAZA BALOTA (beach)
This is by far the prettiest place to swim in Rovinj, and the setting is bursting with character. The craggy stretch of coastline sits below a soaring arched wall in Old Town surrounded by swimming rocks, sunbathing slabs and sea ladders for easy access to the vibrant turquoise water.
3 PM: BASILICA OF ST. EUPHEMIA & BELLTOWER (sightsee)
The Basilica of St. Euphemia and its Belltower sit at the top of Old Town, seen from every angle outside of the city. This is the largest Baroque church in Istria, built in the early 1700s. It’s free to visit, and for a small admission fee, you can climb the bell tower for views over Rovinj and the surrounding Adriatic Sea.
5 PM: ROVINJ WATERFRONT (sightsee)
The Rovinj waterfront is a bustling promenade lined with dozens of restaurants, cafes and gelato shops. Most of the restaurants offer waterfront seating with spectacular views of Old Town.
6 PM: PUNTALINA (dinner)
Puntalina is by far my favorite restaurant in Rovinj. The setting over the sparkling water of Plaza Balota is completely dreamy, especially if you’re able to reserve one of the tables outside. The menu boasts a selection of fresh seafood – my favorites are the scampi buzarra linguine, shrimp with olive oil and garlic and fresh sea bass. Reservations are a must.
8 PM: OMBRA LABORATORIO DEL GELATO (dessert)
Grab a scoop of gelato at this delicious little shop in the middle of Old Town. The perfect sweet end to your first full day in Istria.
Venetian feels here in Rovinj.
DAY 3: ROVINJ
All destinations and restaurants below are within walking distance to each other. Lone Bay is a 25 minute walk from Old Town, or you can rent a car and drive. You’ll need a car for the remainder of the trip, so this is the perfect time to rent it.
8 AM: OLD TOWN (sightsee)
Enjoy an early morning stroll through Old Town before heading to the beach.
9 AM: CAR RENTAL
If you don’t already have a rental car, schedule a pick up. There is an Enterprise Car Rental outpost walking distance from Old Town, as well as a Sixt that is a short taxi ride away. If your Airbnb or hotel does not have a parking lot, there is a large paid lot located right next to Old Town.
10 AM: LONE BAY (beach)
This is a seaside golden bay surrounded by pine trees. On a sunny day, the shallow water is calm, clear and sparkles a vibrant shade of turquoise. Great spot for swimming and sunbathing. Lone Bay is a 25 minute walk or 5 minute drive from Old Town.
6 PM: TREVISOL (drinks)
Trevisol is a vibe in the evenings when the cocktail bar fills its little cobbled courtyard with colorful chairs, pillows and tables.
7 PM: EL BUGADUR (dinner)
El Bugadur is the same owners as Puntalina. It occupies a lovely cobbled terrace overlooking spectacular views of the sea, especially at sunset. Menu offerings are different, but El Bugadur also focuses on fresh seafood. Reservations recommended – request outdoor seating.
9 PM: SLASTICARNA GELATERIA NONNI (dessert)
Walk off dinner with an evening stroll across the waterfront to Slasticarna Gelrateria Nonni for a couple scoops of tasty gelato.
Old Town Rovinj
DAY 4: PULA & BALE
A rental car is required to reach all the destinations below from Rovinj.
8 AM: PULA ARENA (sightsee)
Hop in your rental car and drive an hour south to Pula, the largest city in Istria. The first stop of the day is the ancient Roman amphitheater, my favorite historical sight in Istria. These first century ruins are completely epic, and very well preserved. Plan to arrive at opening to avoid tourists and have the ruins to yourself. It’s usually pretty empty for the first hour.
10 AM: OLD TOWN PULA (sightsee)
From the Pula Arena, stroll over to Old Town to explore the shops, boutiques and historic sites including the Arch of Sergi, Pula Citadel, Temple of Augustus and Forum Square.
12 PM: AMORE PIZZA & PASTA (lunch)
Delicious spot for Neapolitan pizza located behind the Temple of Augustus – an epic outdoor setting for lunch. The pizzas are woodfired, fresh and delicious. Amore also serves a selection of pastas.
4 PM: OLD TOWN BALE (sightsee)
On the journey back to Rovinj, stop in Old Town Bale for an afternoon of sightseeing, drinks and dinner. Bale has all the feels of a fairytale thanks to the winding cobbled lanes, medieval archways and stone buildings. It’s a 25-minute drive from Pula, and afternoons in the stone town are very quiet and serene.
6 PM: KAMENE PRICE (drinks)
Sit down in a medieval alley for a glass of wine at Kamene Price. It is the most charming setting for drinks with a scattering of tables and pillows across a charming lane, surrounded by stone archways and fairy lights.
7 PM: LA GRISA (dinner)
The restaurant at Hotel La Grisa is the best in town. The outdoor courtyard and terrace settings are completely lovely, and the food is delicious. Menu offerings include black truffle gnocchi, scallops in wine sauce, cuttlefish ragu, fresh sea bass, ribs and more. Reservations recommended – request outdoor seating.
Drinks at Kamene Price, in Old Town Bale.
Pula Arena.
DAY 5: BRSEC
A rental car is required to reach all the destinations below from Rovinj.
9 AM: BRSEC BEACH (beach)
Pack a lunch and head across the Istria peninsula to Brsec Beach. It’s a one-hour drive to get to the beach, but worth the journey to spend the day in the region’s most idyllic setting. It’s best to visit on a day when the sun is out and water is calm. In these conditions, the sea glistens a stunning shade of turquoise. The beach is small, but there is sand for sunbathing, as well as stone ruins perched over the water. Parking is very limited and there are no facilities – best to arrive early.
6 PM: MEDITERRARANEO COCKTAIL BAR (drinks)
Return to Rovinj in time to grab evening drinks at Mediterraneo Cocktail Bar that sits on the rocks along the walls of Old Town. The colorful pillows, chairs and tables sit clustered over the rocks facing the prettiest views of the Adriatic Sea. This place is a vibe on a warm sunny evening.
8 PM: SANTA CROCE (dinner)
Sit down for dinner at Santa Croce, a solid restaurant with cute outdoor dining in a bright yellow courtyard. The menu offers a variety of fresh homemade pastas, as well as fresh fish and seafood.
Brsec Beach
DAY 6: MOTOVUN, GROZNJAN, HUM
8 AM: HUM (sightsee)
They call Hum the smallest village in the world. It measures a mere 5 square miles with a population of less than 50 people. The itty bitty cobbled village takes a mere 15 minutes to walk on foot – double the time if you want explore thoroughly.
9 AM: KOTLI WATERMILL (sighsee)
A short drive from Hum is the Kotli Watermill, a stunning blue waterhole to cool off on a hot day, or just soak in the view.
11 AM: MOTOVUN (sightsee)
Drive 40-minutes west to darling Motovun. The medieval setting might be the most iconic hilltop village in Istria. It’s a popular day trip destination, a labyrinth of cobbled lanes lined with truffle shops, gift boutiques and little restaurants.
1 PM: KONOBA MONDO (lunch)
Cute restaurant with a lovely terrace in the middle of Motovun that specializes in truffle-based dishes and local wines.
3 PM: GRONZJAN (sightsee)
From Motovun, it’s a 20-minute drive to little Groznjan. Also known as the Artists’ Village, the small maze of picturesque cobbled lanes connects galleries, craft shops and little boutiques. The village is quiet, lovely and tiny – easily explored in a couple hours.
4 PM: AMODOMIO RESTAURANT (drinks)
Enjoy a glass of wine under the trees on the lovely terrace that sits on a little village square. aModoMio is quiet and serene in the late afternoon.
7 PM: SNACK BAR RIO (dinner)
Return to Rovinj for another lovely dinner on the waterfront. Tables line the water at the casual Snack Bar Rio, a fabulous spot for dinner with a view of Old Town. Highlights on the menu are the fresh seafood and homemade pasta dishes.
8:30 PM AROMA GELATO EXPERIENCE (dessert)
Grab a scoop of gelato from the most popular gelato chain in Croatia.
Boutique in Groznjan | Terrace dining at aModoMio
The Artists’ Village of Groznjan
DAY 7: CAPE KAMENJAK
10 AM: CAPE KAMENJAK(beach, hiking)
Pack a lunch and drive an hour south past Pula to Cape Kamenjack. This expansive park located on the tip of the Istria Peninsula is home to hiking trails, beaches, snorkeling, cliff jumping and more.
6 PM: VERITAS FOOD & WINE (drinks & dinner)
After a day at the beach, head to Pula for your final meal of the trip. Veritas Food & Wine is a small family-owned restaurant located near the Basilica Maria Formosa. The outdoor setting with views of the stone basilica in the evenings is magical. Menu highlights include fresh fish, steaks, shellfish and local wine.
Kamenjack National Park.
BEST ISTRIA HOTELS
BALE: Meneghetti Wine Hotel
BUJE: San Canzian Hotel & Residences
NOVIGRAD: Palazzo Rainis Hotel & Spa
PULA: Grand Hotel Brioni Pula
ROVINJ: Adriatic Hotel, Grand Park Hotel, Hotel Spirito Santo Palazzo, Lone Hotel, Monte Mulini
My 200+ Google Map pins for Croatia are available here.
CROATIA GOOGLE MAP PINS
I’ve been traveling to Croatia for more than a decade, and I’m sharing more than 200 of my Google map pins from destinations across the country with you guys here. The map is savable to your Google account, and easy to use for trip planning and navigation once on the ground in Croatia.
Map pins include:
- must-visit destinations, churches, historic sites, viewpoints
- hotels, villas, Airbnbs
- bars, cafes, cliff bars, gelato shops, restaurants
- beaches, cliff jumping locations, off shore islands, secret coves, sea caves
- boat rental companies, ferry ports
- photo from several of these locations
Destinations included in the map: Cavtat, Dubrovnik, Korcula, Hvar, Krka, Plitvice Lakes, Rovinj + Greater Istria, Split and Vis.
