SPLIT, CROATIA: TRAVEL GUIDE TO THE DALMATIAN GATEWAY

If you’re planning an island hopping trip through Croatia, chances are you’ll begin or end your trip in Split. Home to a lovely Old Town that dates back to the third century BC, it’s worth an overnight stop to explore the medieval walled city. The famed Diocletian’s Palace is a marvel to wander, and it serves as the perfect bookend to a week of spectacular beach days on the nearby Adriatic Islands of Hvar, Vis and Brac. Below is my complete guide to Split including the best places to visit, viewpoints, hotels, restaurants, travel tips and more.

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Peristyle Square is the most beautiful setting in all of Split.

SPLIT TRAVEL TIPS

• CURRENCY – In early 2023, Croatia ditched the Kuna and adopted the Euro as the national currency. Almost everywhere takes credit card, but always it’s useful to have some cash on hand.
• CRUISE SHIPS – When cruise ships are in port, Split becomes especially congested with tourists. Check the cruise schedules and make plans accordingly.
• TIPPING – Tipping is not mandatory in Croatia, but a 10%-15% tip is appreciated at nicer restaurants.

HOW MANY DAYS IN SPLIT

TWO DAYS. While Dubrovnik is home to spectacular beaches, historical sights and hikes, there’s a lot less to see and do in Split. A one night stay is all most visitors need to cover the Old Town, but tack on an extra night for a day trip to the historic town of Trogir.

WHEN TO VISIT SPLIT

• APRIL, MAY, SEPTEMBER & OCTOBER – The shoulder months of May and September offer the best combination of warm weather, manageable crowds and hotel prices.
• NOVEMBER-MARCH – Avoid this time of the year. The weather is cold with the possibility of rain.
• JUNE-AUGUST – Summer days are long and sunny, but it’s also the season when temperatures, crowds and hotel prices soar.

Focaccina Sandwich Bar is a popular focaccia sandwich spot in Old Town.

PLACES TO VISIT IN SPLIT

CATHEDRAL OF SAINT DOMINUS

This is the main church inside the walls of Diocletian’s Palace. The 7th century octagonal cathedral sits surrounded by a ring of 24 Roman columns and the original tomb of Emperor Diocletian. An admission ticket includes access to the cathedral, crypt, baptistery and treasury. The bell tower that overlooks Old Town is a separate admission ticket, and worth the climb for views over the surrounding Old Town.

DIOCLETIAN’S CELLARS

The basement halls sit under the actual emperor chambers of Dioceltian’s Palace. This substructure mirrors the quarters above, and today can be visited with a paid ticket. One of the dragon chamber scenes from Game of Thrones was filmed here.

DIOCLETIAN’S PALACE

It’s the iconic Peristyle Square that is most associated with Diocletian’s Palace, but the palace itself is actually massive and occupies more than half of Old Town. The stunning Roman ruins date back to the third century BC when the emperor Diocletian retired in the palace after his retirement from the Roman Empire. For Peristyle Square, it’s best to visit early in the morning, it starts to get busy after 8 AM.

GOLDEN GATE

This northern gate is one of four Roman entry gates to Old Town Split. The Golden Gate dates back to the fourth century BC, and originally served as the main gate to Diocletian’s Palace.

MARJAN HILL

For the best viewpoint over Split, head to Marjan Hill. The shaded park setting sits west of Old Town, an easy stroll and mild climb up to the viewpoint.

PEOPLE’S SQUARE

This 15th century square is the bustling heart of Split, home to a mix of Renaissance, Venetian and Gothic buildings, as well as the whimsical City Clock that sits atop a Romanesque bell tower.

REPUBLIC SQUARE

This mini version of St. Mark’s Square in Venice sits at the edge of Old Town on the waterfront. Chairs and tables from the surrounding bars and restaurants spill out onto the square below the towering archways that line 19th century building.

RIVA

The palm-lined Riva is the stretch of busy waterfront that runs parallel to Old Town. It’s a hub of bars, cafes, restaurants and vendor stalls.

BEST DAY TRIPS FROM SPLIT

HVAR

Croatia’s most famous island should be experienced over several days, but for visitors tight on time, it’s possible to visit Hvar as a day trip. The island is a one-hour ferry ride from Split with several crossings offered daily during summer season. Ferries dock at Hvar Town, the beating heart of the island that is home to amazing restaurants, bars and a beloved waterfront.

TROGIR

The UNESCO World Heritage Site is a lovely little maze of narrow stone streets lined with little shops, stone archways, medieval lanterns and potted plants. Most visitors don’t realize that the historical town of Trogir sits just 25-minutes from Split by car. The Old Town’s small size and close proximity to Split makes Trogir the perfect day trip option.

BEST SPLIT HOTELS

HERITAGE HOTEL FERMAI MCGALLERY

Heritage Hotel FERMAI McGallery is located outside of Diocletian’s Palace in a historic Art Nouveau building. The rooms are spacious, modern and stylish with white wall moulding, and all accent details in black, white and gold. It’s missing the character of being located in the middle of Old Town, but it’s a short stroll away.

HOTEL VESTIBUL PALACE

This lovely boutique hotel is one of the best lodging options in Split. Hotel Vestibul Palace is located within the medieval walls of Diocletian’s Palace where historic sights, restaurants and bars are all just a short stroll away. It’s an intimate property with only 11 rooms that blend modern comforts with historic details. This is a Small Luxury Hotels of the World property.

LUXURY ROOMS MA DE DOMINIS

Luxury Rooma MA de Dominis is an excellent little boutique option centrally located in Diocletian’s Palace. There are only a few rooms to choose from – all have beautiful exposed stone walls that ooze with Old World ambiance. I recommend the property’s Deluxe Double room – it’s located on the top floor with thatched ceilings and exposed wood beams. Very beautiful.

PIAZZA HERITAGE HOTEL

This is the most iconic hotel in Split thanks to its location in the main square of Old Town. Piazza Heritage Hotel houses 16 rooms in the restored building that are clean and comfortable. Take into consideration that the fabulous central location also means a bit of noise for the front-facing rooms of the property.

RADISSON BLU RESORT & SPA

If you’re looking to stay at a larger property that is more of a traditional hotel chain, the Radisson Blu Resort & Spa is a fine option. It’s located outside of Old Town along the city’s coastline, a 10-minute drive or 30-minute coastal stroll to Diocletian’s Palace. The property feels ultra modern and new, boasting more than 250 rooms, on-site restaurants, pools and a fabulous coastline and beach club.

WHERE TO EAT IN SPLIT

BOKERIA KITCHEN & WINE BAR

This popular restaurant sits on a small piazza in Old Town. Bokeria serves breakfast lunch and dinner in an airy, open space that is especially lively in the early evenings. They serve pastas, seafood and a few local Dalmatian dishes. Reservations recommended.

BOTA SARE SPLIT

This is a sister restaurant to Oyster & Sushi Bar Bota in Dubrovnik. It’s a great spot when you need a change from pasta and seafood. The sushi is fresh, teriyaki dishes are tasty and the apps very delicious.

CHOPS GRILL & SEAFOOD

If you’re in the mood for steak, Chops Grill serves up a selection of meats from around the world including Argentina, Uruguay, Japan, the U.S. and Eastern Europe. The options include classic meats, premium meats and chops from the restaurant’s private collection. Chops Grill also serves fresh fish and grilled lobster for non-meat eaters.

FIG

Fig is an absolutely delicious restaurant that offers a refreshing change from the usual Croatian and seafood fare most restaurants serve. The delicious menu offerings include spicy eggs, Chimichurri potatoes, watermelon + mint salad, California toast and delicious burritos. Fig’s second Croatia location is on Hvar.

FOCACCINA SANDWICH BAR

This take away sandwich bar is one of the most popular quick eats in town. Focaccina serves made-to-order sandwiches on fresh baked focaccia bread that is crispy on the outside with a soft and flavorful inside. The menu includes The Mortadella, The Prosciutto, The Salami, The Caprese, The Parmigiano and the Vegano.

KONOBA KORTA

A traditional Dalmatian konoba in Old Town that serves fresh seafood, home style meat dishes and a selection of local Croatian wines.

LAGAINI

Lagaini is an upscale restaurant in Diocletian’s Palace that specializes in fresh seafood. Highlights include seafood fettuccine, risotto, sea bass, tataki tuna, ceviche and more. Reservations recommended.

PIZZERIA SETTE SORELLE

A lot of restaurants in Croatia serve pizza, but most of it isn’t very good. Pizzeria Sette Sorelle is one of the exceptions. The little restaurant serves authentic Neopolitan pizzas. Similar to the pizzerias in Naples, there aren’t dozens of options on the menu. There are only seven pies on the menu.

PORTOFINO

Portofino offers a selection of grilled steaks, fine pastas, fresh seafood and local wines in a cozy little courtyard tucked away in Old Town. Reservations recommended.

BEST GELATO IN SPLIT

• aRoma Gelato
• Bili San
• Ela’s Gelateria Artigianale
• Gelateria aMare
• Luka Ice Cream
• Sladoledarnica Emiliana

GET AROUND SPLIT

Split is a pedestrian friendly city with most sights located within the city walls of Old Town. If you aren’t venturing beyond Old Town, no car is necessary while in Split. If you’re planning to visit Trogir by day trip, it’s easiest to travel by taxi or ride share, but rental car is also possible (there are a handful of car rental agencies located along the Riva).

GET TO SPLIT

• AIRPORT – The Split Airport (SPU) is located in the town of Kasela, 20 km from Split and 6 km from Trogir. It’s an international airport that services destinations around the world including the new United Airlines route that connects Newark (EWR) to SPU – a seasonal flight that operates three times a week.
• FERRY – The ferry terminal that connects Split to Croatia’s offshore islands sits just outside the city walls, walking distance for passengers with plans to stay in Old Town. I use Ferry Hopper to look up all Croatia ferry schedules and book tickets.
• CAR – If you arrive by rental car, there are a handful of paid parking lots located around Old Town, as well as some paid street parking.